Monday, January 11, 2010

Puy de Dome, France

Mysterious antiquity

The summit of the Puy de Dôme bears the ruins of a great Gallo-Roman temple dedicated to Mercury. As can be seen from the ex-voto found on the site, its influence extended way beyond the frontiers of Arvenie. It was discovered in 1873, during building work on the Observatory. The Temple of Mercury was built in the first two centuries A.D., on the site of a more ancient Gallic sanctuary. Its plan follows that of the traditional Gallic temples, with a cella, ambulatory and opening facing the East.

According to Pliny the Elder, a fabulous statue of the God Mercury, some 18 metres high, was made by the Greek sculptor Zenodore around 60 A.D. No vestiges of this statue have yet been unearthed.

We know nothing of the downfall of the sanctuary in the IIIrd or IVth century, or even later. Was it abandoned at the arrival of Christianity or razed by the barbarian hosts? Objects discovered around the ruins, dating back to the Vth century, provide us with precious little information. No traces of any human presence on the site during the next seven centuries have been revealed, no mention in the writings of the time of any sacred place!

In the XIIth celltury, we now know of the existence of a romanesque chapel, inhabited by a hermit monk, but one century later, there was only mention of an annual pilgrimage, on June 11, for the feast of Saint Barnabas. The scribes make increasingly rare mention of the place and the divine presence seems to have totally forsaken the site, overrun by witchcraft in the XVIth century for - so the legend has it - satanic rites. The chapel was abandoned in the XVIIIth century and fell rapidly to ruin. Vestiges found there less than forty years ago seem, however, to reflect the presence of a somewhat less ancien monument.

Child of the Earth

The Romans probably recognized the volcanic nature of the site on which they built the temple of Mercury. This knowledge became lost in the centuries darkness which followed and it was not until the middle of the XVIIIth century that the mountain's volcanic genesis was reaffirmed.

The formation of the Puy de Dôme was still a mystery for vulcanologists. They were unable to identify it in relation to the known eruptive types (Hawaiian, Strombolian, Vulcanian). The eruption of Mount Pelée in 1902 enabled them to assimilate the Puy de Dôme to a Pelean type edifice.

The constitution of the Dôme as we know it is the result of several periods marked by different eruptive types. The first eruptions, which occured some 12,000 years ago were "Strombolian", generating flows of basalt. Then followed the edification of a cone of scoria caused by "Vulcanian" explosions. This cone was finally infiltrated by an extrusion of extremely viscous lava (clear trachyte called domite), some 8300 years ago.

This was the origin of the volcano's current outline. The last phenomenon was a sprinkling of domite from an adjacent puy and the formation of the little Puy de Dôme, in an ulti mate series of Strombolian type explosions.

The giant of the puys peaks at 1465 m, but the dome itself stands on a crystalline plateau nearly 1000 m high. It seems to be quite deeply dormant, but in theory it could awaken at any time. Fortunately, a warning is more than probable!

The volcano and science and communication

Blaise Pascal's childhood in Clermont was dominated by the familiar presence of the Puy de Dôme. In 1648, he quite naturally chose this symbolic summit as the theatre and witness of his famous experience into the gravity of air.

He showed that the level of mercury in the barometer gradually fell the greater the altitude. To do this, he measured the difference between the device he had left in Clermont and the one he installed at the peak of the Puy de Dôme.

Two centuries later, in 1875, a physics laboratory was built at the peak of the Puy. Its role was to study the atmosphere, paying particular attention to the clouds. Its work was extended to cover vulcanology, seismology, geothermics and geomagnetism.

In 1925, the laboratory became the "Physics Institute and Observatory of the Globe of the Puy de Dôme".

With the installation of the television transmitter in 1956, the first laboratory was demolished and a new building was built as a base for the tower. It now houses the inter-ministerial centre for Communications (TV,radio), the Interior (highway transmissions for the Police), Defence (air force radiogoniometric services), Education (observatory) and Roads and Highways (meteorology and civil aviation navigation).

Taken from a leaflet entitled "Once Upon a Time A Volcano" obtained at Le Puy de Dôme circa 1997.

Le Puy-en-Velay, France



1 - PLACE DU MARTOURET : The name of this square, derived from vulgar latin, denotes a place set aside for public executions : on 8 June 1794, this square was also the scene of the burning of the authentic statuette of the Black Virgin (one of the many works of art seized from convents and churches). On the leftside of the square stands the City Hall (2), The present of design, erected on the former site of a consular building dates from 1766. (It has sustained damage from violent fires : its predecessor was destroyed by fire in 1653, and subsequent damage was caused by fires in 1817 and 1964).

3 - PLACE DU CLAUZEL : In oldd the word Clauzel connoted a small enclosed area. This used to be a cemetery ; specifically, it was the burial ground for the bodies of paupers who died in the Hotel-Dieu, or public hospital. It was assigned to another purpose in 1654.

4 - RUE COURRERIE : No 6 on this street is a restored Renaissance residence displaying on the facade a triple arcade, its protruding keystones adorned with grotesques. Inside, a vaulted corridor leads to a small courtyard over which rises a curious turret dating from 1571. At no.8, note the 16th century facade.

5 - PLACE DU PLOT : The word Plot is probably of vulgar latin origin ("planum") and means "square". A pillory was erected here in 1548. In this space, drunkards were publicly exposed to the jeering of passers-by. The so-called Fontaine de la Bidoire is Le Puy's oldest fountain. It was installed in 1246, and the dolphins and eagles that adorn it must date from the 15th century.

6 - RUE PANNESSAC : This street has conserved many houses dating from the 15th to the 18th century. At no 16, a 15th century projecting turret overhangs Rue Philibert (7).

8 - RUE CHENEBOUTERIE : At no 6 and no 8, 15th century dwellings. At no 9, the house in which Marshal Fayolle was born, dates from 1592.

9 - RUE RAPHAEL : This street used to be inhabited by middle-class families and the city's leading citizens. 18th century facades ;at no 56, facade with Corinthian colonnettes supporting upper-storey masks that represent the sun and the moon.

10 - PLACE DES TABLES : The so-called fontaine du choriste, (15th century) before 1803, this fountain stood in Rue des Farges (11) this was originally a farriers and iron-smiths neighbourhood ;15th -and 17th century houses at nos 31, 35 and 37.

12 - RUE DES TABLES :The name of this street quite simply derives from the fact that on it, during church festivals, the local vendors used to set up their "tables" displaying religious objects for sale to pilgrims.

13 - CATHEDRAL : Romanesque style, displaying Arabic and Bysantine features due to the influence of the Eastern world and Moorish Spain. The cathedral stands half on the rock and half on pillars built into the hillside of Mont Anis.

14 - RUE BECDELIEVRE: This street was named after the Viscount de Becdelievre founder of the museum of Le Puy. Residence of the Coquery family in the 15th century. Note the doors at no 5, 7 and 12. A short distance away stands the ancient "Porte Gouteyron".

15 - PORTE GOUTEYRON : Which was in existence as early as 1295 ; the St. Michael rock is visible from it.

16 - CHAPEL OF THE PENITENTS : This chapel, built in 1584, is now a small museum containing paintings and sculptures produced during the reign of Louis XIII.

17 - THE CLOISTER (National Museum) : This cloister was built concurrently with the cathedral, and is one of Europe's finest. Fresco of the Crucifixion (13th century), symbolic capitals set amid Moorish architecture. In the "batiment des Machicoulis", famous fresco of "Arts Liberaux" and the first floor, religious art's treasure.

18 - ST JOHN'S BAPTISTERY : Early 11th century, door and stylophoric lions inspired by the Lombard school.

19 - PLACE DU FOR : In the 15th century, on side of this square contained a "preaching pulpit", standing next to an oratory, the site of which is now marked by an altar. The Porche du For was erected in the late 12th -or early 13th century.

20 - RUE CARDINAL DE POLIGNAC :On the right are a series of ancient residences that rank among the finest in the old part of town. At no 2, 15th century turret ; at no 8, the former mansion of the Polignac family, from 1611 to the Revolution, with a 15th century turret overlooking the inner courtyard.

21 - RUE ROCHETAILLADE :At no 7, note the Romanesque facade, the oldest in the city. In the upper part of this same street stands another Romanesque facade with great arches and vestiges of brick mosa'ics ; 15th century turret nearby.

22 - PLACE DE LA PLATRIERE :With the house in which was born the writer Jules Valles (1832-1885) and the ancient chapel of the Visitation, built from 1652 to 1655 where the Companions of Jehu were judged in 1799.

23 - CENTRE PIERRE-CARDINAL : The troubadour Pierre Cardinal (circa 1180 -circa 1278) was the scion of an honorable family of noble rank. During the century in which he lived, Pierre Cardinal devoted his talent to the defense of worthy causes, of which he proclaimed himself the "servant". There are no surviving early records of what originally existed on the site of this Center. It was here that, in the early 17th century, the Ursuline nuns founded a religious establishment designed to provide instruction for young ladies. The Revolutionary period ushered in a few changes to these buildings. In 1792, they became military barracks ; subsequently, the chapel, which had been rebuilt in 1739, was converted into a museum from 1820 to 1851. It's now the associations' house and the Cultural Centre of the town.

24 - THE ST CLAIRE CONVENT (Monastere Sainte-Claire) : Founded in 1432 by the Clarisse nuns, this building's high walls cast a shadow over the picturesque little street's roundabout. Thanks to repairs performed some ten years ago, it has been restored to its distinctive appearance.

25 - LE POUZAROT :(Diminutive of "pouze" derived from the word "puits", meaning a well). This was originally a working-class neighbourhood located outside the city walls.

26 - CHURCH OF THE COLLEGE OF THE JESUITS :The old chapel of the Jesuit monastery erected in 1605 by Martellange, the architect of the Society of Jesus. The best example of baroque style architecture.

27 - NOTRE-DAME DE FRANCE STATUE :This is a monumental statue (22,70 meters high) cast in the metal of cannons captured in the battle of Sebastopol, erected in 1860 on the Corneille Rock platform at an altitude of 757 meters.

28 - SAINT-MICHEL D'AIGUILHE DYKE :A 10th century chapel stands perched atop an 80-meters high volcanic peak. The facade and bell-tower date from the 12th century. The facade boasts exceptionnally outstanding decoration.

29 - CROZATIER MUSEUM :This museum, founded in 1820, houses precious collections of archeological items and art works. The Theodore Falcon room is devoted to displays of bobbin lace and needlework lace dating from the 16th to the 20th century.

30 - PANNESSAC TOWER :Ancient royal door of the town (13th century) was partly demolished in 1850 to widen the street.

31 - CHURCH SAINT-LAURENT :The biggest church built in gothic style in the Auvergne region.


Taken from a tourist leaflet entitled "Le Puy-en-Velay Historical Visits" taken from the Office de Toursime circa 1997.

Monday, January 4, 2010

Pedestrian walk all around the medieval city of Thiers, France

SQUARE OF THE TOWN-HALL (ANTONIN CHASTEL)
From this square, the road 89 (CLERMONT- LYON), look at the "Rocher de Margeride" with the suburb of Vidalie and the villages around. You can go up at the top of the car parks no 3 and 4 to look over "the Durolle" our river and its old factories, most of them have been put to lhe other purposes. Look at the town library. This building was formally the town-hall and before then, it was a cloister.

RUE DU BOURG
No 10 remarkable tynpanum typical of the old gothic style, it is black because it is made of a volcanic stone "the pierre de Volvic". It dates back to the fifteenth century. On the central lintel, you can see 2 shields: the first one is adorned with 3 stars symbolizing the 3 purifications: by water, air and fire. Those 3 elements as well as the philosopher's stone were used by alchemists for the transmutation of iron into gold. The oak branch was part of Nicolas Flamel's crest. Those alchemists were regarded as guilty of witchcraft and they used to be burnt at the stake if they happened to be caught. They also devised secret codes of writing which were called "cryptograms". Only the initiated knew the meaning of the coded message. Along that pedestrian precinct with many medieval houses (corbelled and half-tirnbered houses), you can walk down this very busy street and have a look at the pleasant adjoining little streets and squares on bath sides.

MAISON OU HOTEL DU PiROU
Improperly named "chateau", it is a town residence which was built about 1410 for the Duke Louis Second of Bourbon, Lord of THIERS. On the first floor there are two exibition rooms, and on the ground floor there is the Tourist Office. It is owned by the city of THIERS. In the old french language a "pirou" was the stone on which the Lord of THIERS used to deliver judgements. This town residence stands in the place of medieval castle. Only one tower of the castle still remains above the "Cafe Madrigal".

INSIDE THE TOURIST OFFICE
Sharp hooks used to hang meat.
Round hooks used to hang grain sacks.
On each side of the door you can see also wrought iron which used to shut the old wooden door studded with nails.

RUE GRENETTE
In the old french language "une grenette" was a covered market for grains. It was destroyed about 1955. At the number eight in the street was the town residence of Duke of LAUZUN. Look at this striking porch.

RUE DE LA COUTELLERIE
*No5: You can see the shield which was the emblem of the christian pilgrims. Passing through THIERS on the way to Santiago of Compostella in SPAIN.
*N012: The half timbered facade is decorated.
*N014: Please note its tiny figures, crouching woman, king, crouching man, jester, carved in the gallic style.
*N021. This house is called "the house of the man of woods". It is now a listed building. It is particulary known because of this carving of the man with a stick in his hands. This carving still keeps its secret. The grinding workshop is located here.
*N023: The entrance of the first part of the Cutlery Museum.
*N058. The entrance of the second part of the Cutlery Museum, and the Cutler Craftsman's house. It was in the past the house of municipal Magistrates. This house was built in the seventeenth century.

On leaving the Cutler Craftsman's house, you can turn left into "rue Mancel Chabot". On your right, you will see the very old town hospital. Continue a short distance futher up and on the left, climb the stairs under the "pedde" leading to SAINT GENES Church and admire that fine building restored at the beginning of the eleventh century in the true romanesque style of AUVERGNE. It possesses the largest dome in whole AUVERGNE. SAINT GENES was a teenager coming from the east, and sent by his mother to SAINT SIRENAT, to live with him as a hermit. He was martyred and killed in the town. When his body was discovered on the hill, a church was built for the sake of his memory. The church was built with wood, another was made of stone in the romanesque style. In the fifteenth century the church was transformed into gothic style.

You can see above the altar a painting of CHRIST with a halo. The organ was built by Mercklin. It is now a listed work of art. It was 38 stops and 2400 pipes.

On leaving SAINT GENES church, you go straight ahead, turning right into "rue du Pirou", you should note at no.11 the house of the "Seven Deadly Sins" - from left to right: laziness, anger, envy, greed, lust, miserliness, pride. A little further you pass through the "pedde" of "coin des hasards", the largest of the seven alleys (or pedestrian passage called a pedde). Then, turning left into "rue Alexandre Dumas", you can see at nos 19 and 27 two towers of the first fortification.

No12 and 14: "Tour de Maitre Raymond".
French King Francois the First and the artist Benvenuto Cellini stayed in this house on their way back from the campaign of ITALY.

For those who enjoy magnificent sceneries, we advise you of two brief visits nearby:
a) a panoramic view from the balcony "Terasse du rempart".
b) On crossing the road at the top of Rue du Bourg, you find "Rue Conchette", one of the thoroughfares in the ancient center. In that street you can see the best preserved town residences at nos 4-10-27-46, they date back to sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. They have picturesque courtyards inside.




All information taken from two leaflets from the Tourist Information Office in Thiers, circa 1996.

L'eglise Saint-Genes de Thiers, France

DESCRIPTION
This church is one of the most notable examples of Roman architecture in Auvergne . It has the largest roman style dom in the whole of Auvergne : 101 m2, which is remarkable for a building of the 11th century.

The main nave which is quite wide (31 feet), was probably covered with a roof at first, later it was replaced by the present ribbed vault. It followed the exact shape of the rocky spur on which it was built and formed a large staircase with landings. You can clearly notice this if you observe the lower part of the pillars.

In 1863, when the organ chest was put back, about two feet below the present level, fragments of beautiful merovingian mosaics were discovered, probably the pavement of the church. They were taken off remained in cases for a long time. Unfortunately, only few fragments are left. The church ground was levelled and so the mosaics were buried, probably in the XIIth or XIIIth century .

The side chapels were erected from 1520 onwards as the church was too small for the growing population of the town, owing to the flourishing industry and trade.

Besides the two absidal chapels, the most ancient chapel is in the north side of the transpt. It is remarkable for its fine scluptures and its soaring aspect. On the medaillons of the vault, you can see the four Evangelists and the four cardinal virtues. The keystone represents the arms of the family who had it built. Above the altar, there is a damaged picture of the coronation of the virgin which recalls the coming of the Huguenots in 1568.

The three chapels were built in the early 17th centuty. The canons asked the builders to keep a uniformity of style to preserve the general aspect of the church. The two south chapels were built in stone of Ravel. The third one, called the chapel of the blessed sacrament, was adorned with wood carvings in the 18th century. Its huge baroque altar is the work of a local sculptor, Gilles BUCHOT. On either side are the statues of Saint-Genes with the palm of martyrdom and the statue of Saint-Etienne de Muret, a Baron of Thiers who founded the order of Grandmont.

The church furniture, which was very important under the Old Regime, was scattered during the Revolution. Just a few pieces remain nowadays.


HISTORY

Saint-Genes, to whom this church is dedicated, was a young chistian martyr whose feast is celebrated on October the 28th. According to the tradition, Genes lived with Saint-Syrenat, a patron saint of the parish in the Durolle gorge, and suffrered martyrdom at Thiers.

In 575, this church was built by Saint-Avit, bishop of Clermont, on the spot where the grave of Saint-Genes was miraculously found. Later, it was sacked and was replaced by the present building in 1016, the Baron of Thiers endowed Saint-Genes with a chapter of canons and his successors had the church restored in 1107.

The canons of Thiers were given properties by the Baron and levied taxes on the town and the neighbouring villages.

In the 17th century, the church suffered from the wars of religions. It was taken by the huguenots in 1568 and eventualy saved thanks to merchant of Thiers who paid for the departure of the Protestants. The steeple which was above the transept crossing, seems to have been pulled down at that time.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, the church was enlarged by side-chapels built by private persons or by religious brotherhoods. The canons prescribed the gothic style.

At that time, pillar collapsed and important repairs were undertaken in the church. Lots of masters builder's estimates, dating from the whole of 17th century, can still be found.

The Revolution didn't spoil the building. In the middle of the 19th century the entrance to the church was changed and the west sheltered porch was pulled down. A new organ was erected between 1853 and 1863.

At the end of the century the inside of the church was decorated with paintings, in the taste of the time, which hid the bad state of repair. Unfortunately, through the years the church had been badly damaged and very important repairs had to be undertaken to consolidate the church. That was the opportunity to restore the building inside and to strip the stones of the paint. Then ancient mural paintings, which had been hidden under the coats of paint, were restored. The church was closed for several years and was opened for worship again in November 1981.


Taken from a leaflet obtained in the church circa 1996.