Monday, September 14, 2009

St Mary The Virgin, Thornbury

Early History

Although the manor of Thornbury was held by a Saxon thane there is no record of there having been a Saxon church on the site of the present building. There was, however, a Norman church; as there is in evidence an ancient deed whereby the Bishop of Worcester confirmed to the Abbey of Tewkesbury various grants of churches, tithes and other ecclesiastical benefices. Among the churches mentioned are Thornbury, Marshfield and Fairford.

Of the Norman Church, no trace remains but it is thought that it must have been partly rebuilt or extended before the end of the twelfth century, for the north and south doorways are definitely of Transitional Norman period (reinserted in later walls), as is the font.

The present chapel belongs to the decorated period. It was built about 1340, and some years later, possibly between 1373 and 1386, the south aisle was built by Hugh, Lord Stafford. Presumably, too, at this time the north aisle was built, as King Richard II's badge, the peascod, is carved as one of the decorations on the moulding above the east window on the north chapel.

Some little time before 1500, during the reign of King Edward IV, the church, except for the chancel was rebuilt. Edward IV's badge, 'the sun in splendour' appears three times in the ancient glass preserved in the head-tracery of the South West window of the south aisle - this is an important clue as to the date of the major work which gave the church its unmistakable Perpendicular style. The tower was rebuilt last with the upper stages and pinnacles being added around 1540.

The suggestion that the rebuilding of the church was contemporary with that of the castle is not held to be true. Edward Stafford, the third Duke of Buckingham began rebuilding the castle in 1511 and he had obtained a licence from the Crown to establish a college of Priests. Unfortunately he did not live to carry out this project as he gave offence to Cardinal Wolsey and was executed, allegedly for high treason, in 1521 - by which date the church had been rebuilt. In 1599 flat roofs were substituted for the ancient high-pitched roofs and a clerestory added to the nave.

Early in the 18th century, after the will of Mr.John Champneys, some strange alterations took place in the chancel. The floor was raised and an Italian Screen of carved oak erected in front of the east window. It hid the piscina, sedilia and south windows from view and the altar was a plain slab of white marble supported on iron brackets.

Apart from this relatively short-lived alteration to the chancel, the building was little changed until the 1848 restoration.



The 1848 Restoration

This took place under the supervision of Mr.Francis Niblett, and every part of the building was substantially improved and restored. The roof was remade and held in place by newly constructed stone corbels (replacing those made of wood). They are emblazoned with the following arms:-

North side (lay) South side (Ecclesiastical)
1. William Rufus 1. England
2. Fitz Hamon 2. Tewkesbury Abbey
3. Robert of Gloucester 3. See of Canterbury
4. De Clare 4. See of Gloucester
5. De Audley 5. See of Bristol
6. Stafford 6. Christchurch Oxford
7. Howard 7. Townshend of Castle Townshend


The walls of the chancel were raised and the present roof of stone tiles replaced the flat lead roof. At the same time the chancel arch was constructed in place of a four centred arch similar in height to the nave arches.

However, the most significant feature of the 1848 restoration to affect the interior of the building was the removal of the pews. These were of "every conceivable height (averaging 5'6") and of every imaginable shape, of deal, unpainted, very dirty and untidy, looking all ways but the right one". The present pews were designed from fragments of the old carved ones.

After this major restoration relatively little has happened to alter the essential character of the building right up to the present day.

In 1914 the arch opening from the Stafford Chapel to the South Aisle was filled with a perpendicular-style screen to the memory of Lady Rachel Howard, and in 1915 a special service was held when Bishop Hodgson of St.Edmundsbury (and former Vicar of Thornbury) rededicated the Stafford Chapel after its restoration.

In 1938 the altar was extended to its original length of ten feet and five new altar frontals were bought, one of which (made from gold and blue crocatelle) was used at the Coronation of King George VI and presented to St.Mary's by the Hon.Lady Howard (wife of Sir Algar Howard).

At the same time altar rails of oak were erected in memory of Sir Edward Stafford Howard by his widow. In 1971 new lightning fittings in wrought iron replaced the old glass globes in the nave. These were designed and constructed locally by Edwin Hart from Almondsbury forge.

Recent work on the church has done much to emphasize the beauty of the building. In 1986 the Diocese of Gloucester bought the Curate's house, and the money realized from the sale went into church funds and helped towards the cost of various projects.

Priority went to refurbishing the heating system which had previously been ineffective. The addiition of a pump, three gas-fired boilers and extra radiators proved a most efficient system.

The clerestory windows have been totally replaced, and, while preserving much of the ancient green tinged glass, now allow much more light into the building.

After much thought and discussion, the four front pews of the nave were removed, stone flaggig provided to cover the bare earth underneath, and an especially constructed carpeted platform built to support a new nave altar. This altar was constructed of English Ash and was commissioned from Illingworth and Partridge, from Dorset.

The whole of the inside of the building was given many coats of limewash and it was interesting to discover that large areas of stucco (especially in the area of the tower and the nave side of the chancel arch) had originally been limewashed, and so the interior of the building has been restored to something of its former light and airy glory.

The last stage in this recent refurbishment was the complete renovation of the organ, details of which appear later.



A Tour of the Church

Entering through the South porch note the transitional Norman Archway and the fine oak door with its ancient lock, bearing the name 'Knapp', still a local name. Inside the church an air of spaciousness is immediately apparent. The Nave, some 75 feet long is 25 feet wide and it is divided from the aisles by tall slender pillars only 2 feet in diameter. The font belongs to the Transitional Norman period and is finely carved. The West Window was erected to the memory of Edmund Lloyd (a warden of St.Mary's( in 1855. The North Aisle contains four memorial windows installed between 1875-1892. The South Aisle is of a very different character from that on the North Side. The windows are placed so high as almost to suggest a cloister may have been contemplated. At the top of these windows are some fragments of ancient glass, but the main work is that of Victorian craftsmen. The Attwells Memorial is a dominant feature of the aisle. John Attwells was a benefactor who helped found a free school in Thornbury. The pulpit is of mediaeval stone and dates from the same time as the nave. The stairs are more modern and cover a tomb! The lectern was made from an oak beam from Salisbury Cathedral in 1879 when it was some 663 years old!

Moving to the chancel, in the floor before the altar raisl is a slab that once contained brass effigies of Thomas Tyndall and his wife. Alice Tyndall is still present - along with a rhymed moral inscription of some twelve lines. A replica of the brass is available for rubbing. The Stafford memorial on the North side of the chancel is of interest.

The South Chapel is known as the Stafford Chapel as it was erected by Hugh, Lord Stafford, and could possibly have been a chantry chapel of the Berkeleys - as there is a carved angel on the western pier bearing the Berkeley arms. Under the South Window (dedicated to the Thurston family) is a typical seventeenth-century monument to a brother and sister who died in their youth. The Blessed Sacrament is reserved in this chapel which is used for weekday celebrations of the Eucharist and for daily Matins and Evensong. The Icon, which is used by many as an aid to devotion is a block mounted print of part of the Icon of the Virgin Vladimir. The original was painted by a Greek artist in the twelfth century.

Outside the church, the main feature is the tower. Measuring 130 feet to the tops of the angle turrets, it is an important landmark.

The pinnacles and battlements, having fallen into a decayed condition, were rebuilt in 1889 at a cost of nearly #1,000. Its similarity to that of Gloucester Cathedral results from work of the Architect, Mr.Waller, who was also Architect to that venerable building. Between the castle and the church, there existed a 'galery of tymbre' which linked the castle to the church. Against the North chancel wall was a window which opened into a room at the end of the 'Galery of Tymbre'. The Duke used to hear the service without entering the Church! Reputedly, this gallery was used by Henry VIII, Anne Boleyn and Mary Tudor. There are a great variety of gargoyles and grotesque figures and on the outside of the east window of the Stafford Chapel may be found Richard II's peascod badge.



The Bells

These date from 1698 and all eight were in the belfry in 1828. They were rehung in 1893, 1938 and 1996. The inscriptions are as follows:-


1st (30" diameter, treble) 1) "Glory to God in the Highest" on shoulder
2) 17 W(bell)E60 on waist below above
3) M.Vooght-Vicar/V.Murray P.Sage A.Mullinex - Churchwardens (opposite 2)


2nd (31" diameter) 1) Mr John Salmon, Mr James Cullimore Chw'ns W(bell)E1760
2) 1938 H.E.McLeod-Vicar/R.A.Bennett L.T.
Thurston Chw'ns "God is our hope and strength"


3rd (31" diameter) M.F.T.Stephens - Vicar J.Ford W.Cornock & W.Cowley
C.Wardens 1828. I.Rudhall Fect.


4th (35" diameter) Jon Thurston Wm. Tanner "God Save the King" 1698
Abr Rudhall cast us all


5th (38" diameter) Mordecai Hignell Churchwarden 1788 J.Rudhall Fect.


6th (41" diameter) The Revd. M.F.T.Stephens - Vicar Jas.Ford.
Wm. Cornock & Wm. Cowley Churchwardens 1828
J.Rudhall Fect.


7th (44" diameter) Tho.Harvest Joh. Hewitt Wilm. Clarke: Chwrd: 1698


8th (49" diameter) Ralph Grove -Vicar Guy Hewitt Hen.Prichard
Rob. Wyse C.W. 1717 A(bell)R




The Organ

The organ was originally in a West gallery over the present choir vestry. It was installed in 1805 when the tower arch was blocked off. In 1809 one of the bells fell through the stonework under the vestry roof narrowly missing the organ!

In 1870 Messrs W.G.Vowles of Bristol provided a completely new instrument which was situated in what had been the North chapel.

Around the year 1924 the instrument was rebuilt by its makers. It was enlarged and pneumatic action replaced the original tracker (mechanical action). By 1950 reports made reference to the extremely worn condition of the organ, and by 1986 it was proving extremely troublesome.

After much deliberation and discussion, it was decided to use the existing pipework as the basis for a comprehensive rebuild. Messrs Percy Daniel & Co of Clevedon completed the task between St.Cecilia's Day in 1987 and Easter Day in 1988. The specification, designed by Nigel Davies, has been made as flexible as possinle, enabling the instrument to accompany large congregations and also be suitable for recital purposes.

Of special note is the Trompette, a powerful reed stop voiced after the French manner, which is visible above the casework pipes in the chancel.

The instrument has 2 manuals, 29 speaking stops and 10 couplers. It was officially opened by Mr.Roy Massey of Hereford Cathedral on Friday June 4th, 1988.



Taken from a booklet titled "St.Mary The Virgin, Thornbury - Illustrated Guide", dated September 1997.

Tintern Abbey

Tintern Abbey was founded in 1131 for Cistercian monks from the Norman abbey of L'Aumone. The remote and tranquil location, here in the Wye Valley, is typical of those sought by this austere order. The great abbey church and monastic building reflect over four hundred years of Cistercian life, finally brought to an end with King Henry VIII's dissolution of the monastery in 1536.

Taken from a public information plaque outside of the Abbey.

Chepstow Castle

Chepstow Castle was begun by William fitz Obern before 1071 and is the earliest dated stone castle in Britain. Added to in various stages from the 12th century right through to the 17th, the castle thus illustrates the development of military architecture over a very long period.

Taken from a public information plate outside of the castle.

St.Arilda, Oldbury-on-Severn

The Site

The tumulus on which the church stands is of uncertain date and may have pre-Christian pagan associations. There is an Iron-age settlement in the village half a mile to the north, and Roman coins have been found here in the churchyard. The chancel stands about central on the tumulus, with the tower alongside on the highest ground. Formerly many fine elms grew around the perimeter, but these unfortunately all became victims of the Dutch elm disease.


Dedication

Arilda is a local saint of Saxon times. All that is known of her is recorded by the historian Leland "Saynt Arild Virgin, martired at Kineton ny Thornberye by one Muncius a tiraunt, who cut off hir heade becawse she would not consent to lye with him". She was later buried in the crypt of Gloucester Cathedral where the monks said many miracles were done in her name. The only other church in the country dedicated to her is at Olbury-on-the-Hill, about 15 miles away.



The Church in Oldbury

The Church began as a Free-chapel within the parish of Thornbury, and the first priest was inducted by Bishop Giffard of Worcester in 1283. Free-chapels were independent of the parish churches and had their own endowment, a survey of 1548 had this to say of Oldbury - "Certeyn lands there given .... the rents wherof at sometimes bestowed in finding a prieste, but comonlie in mendynge of highe weys and relevynge poore people." The income from the land was only 14s 9d (74p - 1998) a year, but country priests often supplimented their income by farming glebe-land, William Tyllyn here in 1559 had 2 cows and a sheep to leave in his will.

Most free-chapels were suppressed by Edward VI and their buildings demolished or sold, but Oldbury survived, perhaps the surveyors words "where they use in every poynt as in a parishe church" saved it.

In the turmoil of the Reformation one villager found himself in trouble. John Clement was charged at the Bishop's court "that he usethe not the sacrement of the aultere reverntly but callethe it baggage". He apologised and seems to have got off without punishment.

Sevices were maintained by clergy from Thornbury, and although a survey of benefices in 1650 reported that "Oldbury & Cowhill are fit to be a parish", and it was not until 1863 that parochial status came, and the first Rector, Rev.J.Field was inducted.

The Dean and Chapter of Christ Church, Oxford, as patrons of the living, appointed Rectors until 1976, and since 1984 Oldbury has shared a Priest-in-charge with two neighbouring parishes which may eventually become a united benefice.



The Building

"The Nave and Aisles were originally built in the 13th century. The arcades are rather singular in construction and most interesting, the mouldings are continuous from base to base of each pier without the usual capitals at the springing of the arch, the bases are well elevated and handsome, they are of excellent design and workmanship. The tower was erected in the 15th century". (From a report by F.Waller, Architect).

By 1542 the parishioners were complaining that the chancel was "in suche ruine and decaye that the curate was fayne and compelled to celebrate masse in the bodie of the churche".

The Great Storm of 1703 badly damaged the walls and roof, and the steeple had to be taken down. The estimate for repairs was œ1000, and a nationwide appeal brought money from as far away as Warrington, Norwich and Margate. The steeple was not replaced, but a weathercock dated 1717 was set up on the tower.

In the mid 19th century, the church was once again described as "little more than a ruin", so a thorough restoration was carried out in 1884-5. The chancel screen and high box-pews were removed, and a new roof of Brosely tiles replaced the previous one of lead.

Disaster struck on October 31st 1897, when the whole building, except for the porches, was gutted by fore. The roof and all the furnishings were completely destroyed, even the free-stone arches were so badly damaged that they had to be rebuilt. Most of what you see now is modern, but all is a faithful copy of the old building, even its inaccuracies were repeated: the south arcade is nearly 1 foot higher than the north. Recently, new windows of clear glass replaced the diamond-shaped panes of 1899: they are historically correct, as the ancient church had clear glass in square panes.

As you leave observe the parapet on the north porch, possibly the most splendid you have seen on a village church. On the left-hand side of the porch a consecration cross can still be faintly seen.


Bells

Bigland's "Gloucestershire" mentions the tower containing a bell in 1792, and tells of an earlier "Great Bell named Gabriel" that was sold by a church warden "for his own use". The one which perished in the fire was cast by Mears of Gloucestershire in 1844, the present bell was cast by Llewellin & James of Bristol in 1899, and was a gift of Mr.J.Barnard, father of the Rector at that time.


Font

At sometime the original font had been removed to the churchyard, and later to Thornbury Castle, and replaced by one "in the Grecian style" which was put in the middle aisle. At the restoration of 1885 the original was returned and reinstated, only to be destroyed in the fire 12 years later. The present one is an exact replica made from measurements and photographs. The "Grecian" font was given to the Cathedral of Suva, in the Fiji islands, where it is still in use.


Music

A choir here in 1742 undertook to practice regularly or be fined £2! We do not know what accompaniment they had, if any, but in Victorian times a harmonium was used until 1892, when the first pipe organ was installed, and replaced after the fire by the present one in 1907.


Registers

Two Registers of Baptisms, Marriages and Burials, 1538-1730, are in Gloucester County Record Office, all the others having been burnt in 1897, although some entries for Oldbury are to be found in the Thornbury registers, also in Gloucestershire CRO.


Postscript

We hope that on your visit the weather allowed you the splendid views from the churchyard; there are seats at the best spots for your use. And perhaps thank those conservative parishoners (now long departed) who rejected proposals in 1883 and 1897 to build a new church in the centre of the village.


Taken from a leaflet called "St.Arilda, Oldbury-on-Severn", obtained in 1998 from the church itself.