Mysterious antiquity
The summit of the Puy de Dôme bears the ruins of a great Gallo-Roman temple dedicated to Mercury. As can be seen from the ex-voto found on the site, its influence extended way beyond the frontiers of Arvenie. It was discovered in 1873, during building work on the Observatory. The Temple of Mercury was built in the first two centuries A.D., on the site of a more ancient Gallic sanctuary. Its plan follows that of the traditional Gallic temples, with a cella, ambulatory and opening facing the East.
According to Pliny the Elder, a fabulous statue of the God Mercury, some 18 metres high, was made by the Greek sculptor Zenodore around 60 A.D. No vestiges of this statue have yet been unearthed.
We know nothing of the downfall of the sanctuary in the IIIrd or IVth century, or even later. Was it abandoned at the arrival of Christianity or razed by the barbarian hosts? Objects discovered around the ruins, dating back to the Vth century, provide us with precious little information. No traces of any human presence on the site during the next seven centuries have been revealed, no mention in the writings of the time of any sacred place!
In the XIIth celltury, we now know of the existence of a romanesque chapel, inhabited by a hermit monk, but one century later, there was only mention of an annual pilgrimage, on June 11, for the feast of Saint Barnabas. The scribes make increasingly rare mention of the place and the divine presence seems to have totally forsaken the site, overrun by witchcraft in the XVIth century for - so the legend has it - satanic rites. The chapel was abandoned in the XVIIIth century and fell rapidly to ruin. Vestiges found there less than forty years ago seem, however, to reflect the presence of a somewhat less ancien monument.
Child of the Earth
The Romans probably recognized the volcanic nature of the site on which they built the temple of Mercury. This knowledge became lost in the centuries darkness which followed and it was not until the middle of the XVIIIth century that the mountain's volcanic genesis was reaffirmed.
The formation of the Puy de Dôme was still a mystery for vulcanologists. They were unable to identify it in relation to the known eruptive types (Hawaiian, Strombolian, Vulcanian). The eruption of Mount Pelée in 1902 enabled them to assimilate the Puy de Dôme to a Pelean type edifice.
The constitution of the Dôme as we know it is the result of several periods marked by different eruptive types. The first eruptions, which occured some 12,000 years ago were "Strombolian", generating flows of basalt. Then followed the edification of a cone of scoria caused by "Vulcanian" explosions. This cone was finally infiltrated by an extrusion of extremely viscous lava (clear trachyte called domite), some 8300 years ago.
This was the origin of the volcano's current outline. The last phenomenon was a sprinkling of domite from an adjacent puy and the formation of the little Puy de Dôme, in an ulti mate series of Strombolian type explosions.
The giant of the puys peaks at 1465 m, but the dome itself stands on a crystalline plateau nearly 1000 m high. It seems to be quite deeply dormant, but in theory it could awaken at any time. Fortunately, a warning is more than probable!
The volcano and science and communication
Blaise Pascal's childhood in Clermont was dominated by the familiar presence of the Puy de Dôme. In 1648, he quite naturally chose this symbolic summit as the theatre and witness of his famous experience into the gravity of air.
He showed that the level of mercury in the barometer gradually fell the greater the altitude. To do this, he measured the difference between the device he had left in Clermont and the one he installed at the peak of the Puy de Dôme.
Two centuries later, in 1875, a physics laboratory was built at the peak of the Puy. Its role was to study the atmosphere, paying particular attention to the clouds. Its work was extended to cover vulcanology, seismology, geothermics and geomagnetism.
In 1925, the laboratory became the "Physics Institute and Observatory of the Globe of the Puy de Dôme".
With the installation of the television transmitter in 1956, the first laboratory was demolished and a new building was built as a base for the tower. It now houses the inter-ministerial centre for Communications (TV,radio), the Interior (highway transmissions for the Police), Defence (air force radiogoniometric services), Education (observatory) and Roads and Highways (meteorology and civil aviation navigation).
Taken from a leaflet entitled "Once Upon a Time A Volcano" obtained at Le Puy de Dôme circa 1997.
Monday, January 11, 2010
Le Puy-en-Velay, France
1 - PLACE DU MARTOURET : The name of this square, derived from vulgar latin, denotes a place set aside for public executions : on 8 June 1794, this square was also the scene of the burning of the authentic statuette of the Black Virgin (one of the many works of art seized from convents and churches). On the leftside of the square stands the City Hall (2), The present of design, erected on the former site of a consular building dates from 1766. (It has sustained damage from violent fires : its predecessor was destroyed by fire in 1653, and subsequent damage was caused by fires in 1817 and 1964).
3 - PLACE DU CLAUZEL : In oldd the word Clauzel connoted a small enclosed area. This used to be a cemetery ; specifically, it was the burial ground for the bodies of paupers who died in the Hotel-Dieu, or public hospital. It was assigned to another purpose in 1654.
4 - RUE COURRERIE : No 6 on this street is a restored Renaissance residence displaying on the facade a triple arcade, its protruding keystones adorned with grotesques. Inside, a vaulted corridor leads to a small courtyard over which rises a curious turret dating from 1571. At no.8, note the 16th century facade.
5 - PLACE DU PLOT : The word Plot is probably of vulgar latin origin ("planum") and means "square". A pillory was erected here in 1548. In this space, drunkards were publicly exposed to the jeering of passers-by. The so-called Fontaine de la Bidoire is Le Puy's oldest fountain. It was installed in 1246, and the dolphins and eagles that adorn it must date from the 15th century.
6 - RUE PANNESSAC : This street has conserved many houses dating from the 15th to the 18th century. At no 16, a 15th century projecting turret overhangs Rue Philibert (7).
8 - RUE CHENEBOUTERIE : At no 6 and no 8, 15th century dwellings. At no 9, the house in which Marshal Fayolle was born, dates from 1592.
9 - RUE RAPHAEL : This street used to be inhabited by middle-class families and the city's leading citizens. 18th century facades ;at no 56, facade with Corinthian colonnettes supporting upper-storey masks that represent the sun and the moon.
10 - PLACE DES TABLES : The so-called fontaine du choriste, (15th century) before 1803, this fountain stood in Rue des Farges (11) this was originally a farriers and iron-smiths neighbourhood ;15th -and 17th century houses at nos 31, 35 and 37.
12 - RUE DES TABLES :The name of this street quite simply derives from the fact that on it, during church festivals, the local vendors used to set up their "tables" displaying religious objects for sale to pilgrims.
13 - CATHEDRAL : Romanesque style, displaying Arabic and Bysantine features due to the influence of the Eastern world and Moorish Spain. The cathedral stands half on the rock and half on pillars built into the hillside of Mont Anis.
14 - RUE BECDELIEVRE: This street was named after the Viscount de Becdelievre founder of the museum of Le Puy. Residence of the Coquery family in the 15th century. Note the doors at no 5, 7 and 12. A short distance away stands the ancient "Porte Gouteyron".
15 - PORTE GOUTEYRON : Which was in existence as early as 1295 ; the St. Michael rock is visible from it.
16 - CHAPEL OF THE PENITENTS : This chapel, built in 1584, is now a small museum containing paintings and sculptures produced during the reign of Louis XIII.
17 - THE CLOISTER (National Museum) : This cloister was built concurrently with the cathedral, and is one of Europe's finest. Fresco of the Crucifixion (13th century), symbolic capitals set amid Moorish architecture. In the "batiment des Machicoulis", famous fresco of "Arts Liberaux" and the first floor, religious art's treasure.
18 - ST JOHN'S BAPTISTERY : Early 11th century, door and stylophoric lions inspired by the Lombard school.
19 - PLACE DU FOR : In the 15th century, on side of this square contained a "preaching pulpit", standing next to an oratory, the site of which is now marked by an altar. The Porche du For was erected in the late 12th -or early 13th century.
20 - RUE CARDINAL DE POLIGNAC :On the right are a series of ancient residences that rank among the finest in the old part of town. At no 2, 15th century turret ; at no 8, the former mansion of the Polignac family, from 1611 to the Revolution, with a 15th century turret overlooking the inner courtyard.
21 - RUE ROCHETAILLADE :At no 7, note the Romanesque facade, the oldest in the city. In the upper part of this same street stands another Romanesque facade with great arches and vestiges of brick mosa'ics ; 15th century turret nearby.
22 - PLACE DE LA PLATRIERE :With the house in which was born the writer Jules Valles (1832-1885) and the ancient chapel of the Visitation, built from 1652 to 1655 where the Companions of Jehu were judged in 1799.
23 - CENTRE PIERRE-CARDINAL : The troubadour Pierre Cardinal (circa 1180 -circa 1278) was the scion of an honorable family of noble rank. During the century in which he lived, Pierre Cardinal devoted his talent to the defense of worthy causes, of which he proclaimed himself the "servant". There are no surviving early records of what originally existed on the site of this Center. It was here that, in the early 17th century, the Ursuline nuns founded a religious establishment designed to provide instruction for young ladies. The Revolutionary period ushered in a few changes to these buildings. In 1792, they became military barracks ; subsequently, the chapel, which had been rebuilt in 1739, was converted into a museum from 1820 to 1851. It's now the associations' house and the Cultural Centre of the town.
24 - THE ST CLAIRE CONVENT (Monastere Sainte-Claire) : Founded in 1432 by the Clarisse nuns, this building's high walls cast a shadow over the picturesque little street's roundabout. Thanks to repairs performed some ten years ago, it has been restored to its distinctive appearance.
25 - LE POUZAROT :(Diminutive of "pouze" derived from the word "puits", meaning a well). This was originally a working-class neighbourhood located outside the city walls.
26 - CHURCH OF THE COLLEGE OF THE JESUITS :The old chapel of the Jesuit monastery erected in 1605 by Martellange, the architect of the Society of Jesus. The best example of baroque style architecture.
27 - NOTRE-DAME DE FRANCE STATUE :This is a monumental statue (22,70 meters high) cast in the metal of cannons captured in the battle of Sebastopol, erected in 1860 on the Corneille Rock platform at an altitude of 757 meters.
28 - SAINT-MICHEL D'AIGUILHE DYKE :A 10th century chapel stands perched atop an 80-meters high volcanic peak. The facade and bell-tower date from the 12th century. The facade boasts exceptionnally outstanding decoration.
29 - CROZATIER MUSEUM :This museum, founded in 1820, houses precious collections of archeological items and art works. The Theodore Falcon room is devoted to displays of bobbin lace and needlework lace dating from the 16th to the 20th century.
30 - PANNESSAC TOWER :Ancient royal door of the town (13th century) was partly demolished in 1850 to widen the street.
31 - CHURCH SAINT-LAURENT :The biggest church built in gothic style in the Auvergne region.
Taken from a tourist leaflet entitled "Le Puy-en-Velay Historical Visits" taken from the Office de Toursime circa 1997.
Monday, January 4, 2010
Pedestrian walk all around the medieval city of Thiers, France
SQUARE OF THE TOWN-HALL (ANTONIN CHASTEL)
From this square, the road 89 (CLERMONT- LYON), look at the "Rocher de Margeride" with the suburb of Vidalie and the villages around. You can go up at the top of the car parks no 3 and 4 to look over "the Durolle" our river and its old factories, most of them have been put to lhe other purposes. Look at the town library. This building was formally the town-hall and before then, it was a cloister.
RUE DU BOURG
No 10 remarkable tynpanum typical of the old gothic style, it is black because it is made of a volcanic stone "the pierre de Volvic". It dates back to the fifteenth century. On the central lintel, you can see 2 shields: the first one is adorned with 3 stars symbolizing the 3 purifications: by water, air and fire. Those 3 elements as well as the philosopher's stone were used by alchemists for the transmutation of iron into gold. The oak branch was part of Nicolas Flamel's crest. Those alchemists were regarded as guilty of witchcraft and they used to be burnt at the stake if they happened to be caught. They also devised secret codes of writing which were called "cryptograms". Only the initiated knew the meaning of the coded message. Along that pedestrian precinct with many medieval houses (corbelled and half-tirnbered houses), you can walk down this very busy street and have a look at the pleasant adjoining little streets and squares on bath sides.
MAISON OU HOTEL DU PiROU
Improperly named "chateau", it is a town residence which was built about 1410 for the Duke Louis Second of Bourbon, Lord of THIERS. On the first floor there are two exibition rooms, and on the ground floor there is the Tourist Office. It is owned by the city of THIERS. In the old french language a "pirou" was the stone on which the Lord of THIERS used to deliver judgements. This town residence stands in the place of medieval castle. Only one tower of the castle still remains above the "Cafe Madrigal".
INSIDE THE TOURIST OFFICE
Sharp hooks used to hang meat.
Round hooks used to hang grain sacks.
On each side of the door you can see also wrought iron which used to shut the old wooden door studded with nails.
RUE GRENETTE
In the old french language "une grenette" was a covered market for grains. It was destroyed about 1955. At the number eight in the street was the town residence of Duke of LAUZUN. Look at this striking porch.
RUE DE LA COUTELLERIE
*No5: You can see the shield which was the emblem of the christian pilgrims. Passing through THIERS on the way to Santiago of Compostella in SPAIN.
*N012: The half timbered facade is decorated.
*N014: Please note its tiny figures, crouching woman, king, crouching man, jester, carved in the gallic style.
*N021. This house is called "the house of the man of woods". It is now a listed building. It is particulary known because of this carving of the man with a stick in his hands. This carving still keeps its secret. The grinding workshop is located here.
*N023: The entrance of the first part of the Cutlery Museum.
*N058. The entrance of the second part of the Cutlery Museum, and the Cutler Craftsman's house. It was in the past the house of municipal Magistrates. This house was built in the seventeenth century.
On leaving the Cutler Craftsman's house, you can turn left into "rue Mancel Chabot". On your right, you will see the very old town hospital. Continue a short distance futher up and on the left, climb the stairs under the "pedde" leading to SAINT GENES Church and admire that fine building restored at the beginning of the eleventh century in the true romanesque style of AUVERGNE. It possesses the largest dome in whole AUVERGNE. SAINT GENES was a teenager coming from the east, and sent by his mother to SAINT SIRENAT, to live with him as a hermit. He was martyred and killed in the town. When his body was discovered on the hill, a church was built for the sake of his memory. The church was built with wood, another was made of stone in the romanesque style. In the fifteenth century the church was transformed into gothic style.
You can see above the altar a painting of CHRIST with a halo. The organ was built by Mercklin. It is now a listed work of art. It was 38 stops and 2400 pipes.
On leaving SAINT GENES church, you go straight ahead, turning right into "rue du Pirou", you should note at no.11 the house of the "Seven Deadly Sins" - from left to right: laziness, anger, envy, greed, lust, miserliness, pride. A little further you pass through the "pedde" of "coin des hasards", the largest of the seven alleys (or pedestrian passage called a pedde). Then, turning left into "rue Alexandre Dumas", you can see at nos 19 and 27 two towers of the first fortification.
No12 and 14: "Tour de Maitre Raymond".
French King Francois the First and the artist Benvenuto Cellini stayed in this house on their way back from the campaign of ITALY.
For those who enjoy magnificent sceneries, we advise you of two brief visits nearby:
a) a panoramic view from the balcony "Terasse du rempart".
b) On crossing the road at the top of Rue du Bourg, you find "Rue Conchette", one of the thoroughfares in the ancient center. In that street you can see the best preserved town residences at nos 4-10-27-46, they date back to sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. They have picturesque courtyards inside.
All information taken from two leaflets from the Tourist Information Office in Thiers, circa 1996.
From this square, the road 89 (CLERMONT- LYON), look at the "Rocher de Margeride" with the suburb of Vidalie and the villages around. You can go up at the top of the car parks no 3 and 4 to look over "the Durolle" our river and its old factories, most of them have been put to lhe other purposes. Look at the town library. This building was formally the town-hall and before then, it was a cloister.
RUE DU BOURG
No 10 remarkable tynpanum typical of the old gothic style, it is black because it is made of a volcanic stone "the pierre de Volvic". It dates back to the fifteenth century. On the central lintel, you can see 2 shields: the first one is adorned with 3 stars symbolizing the 3 purifications: by water, air and fire. Those 3 elements as well as the philosopher's stone were used by alchemists for the transmutation of iron into gold. The oak branch was part of Nicolas Flamel's crest. Those alchemists were regarded as guilty of witchcraft and they used to be burnt at the stake if they happened to be caught. They also devised secret codes of writing which were called "cryptograms". Only the initiated knew the meaning of the coded message. Along that pedestrian precinct with many medieval houses (corbelled and half-tirnbered houses), you can walk down this very busy street and have a look at the pleasant adjoining little streets and squares on bath sides.
MAISON OU HOTEL DU PiROU
Improperly named "chateau", it is a town residence which was built about 1410 for the Duke Louis Second of Bourbon, Lord of THIERS. On the first floor there are two exibition rooms, and on the ground floor there is the Tourist Office. It is owned by the city of THIERS. In the old french language a "pirou" was the stone on which the Lord of THIERS used to deliver judgements. This town residence stands in the place of medieval castle. Only one tower of the castle still remains above the "Cafe Madrigal".
INSIDE THE TOURIST OFFICE
Sharp hooks used to hang meat.
Round hooks used to hang grain sacks.
On each side of the door you can see also wrought iron which used to shut the old wooden door studded with nails.
RUE GRENETTE
In the old french language "une grenette" was a covered market for grains. It was destroyed about 1955. At the number eight in the street was the town residence of Duke of LAUZUN. Look at this striking porch.
RUE DE LA COUTELLERIE
*No5: You can see the shield which was the emblem of the christian pilgrims. Passing through THIERS on the way to Santiago of Compostella in SPAIN.
*N012: The half timbered facade is decorated.
*N014: Please note its tiny figures, crouching woman, king, crouching man, jester, carved in the gallic style.
*N021. This house is called "the house of the man of woods". It is now a listed building. It is particulary known because of this carving of the man with a stick in his hands. This carving still keeps its secret. The grinding workshop is located here.
*N023: The entrance of the first part of the Cutlery Museum.
*N058. The entrance of the second part of the Cutlery Museum, and the Cutler Craftsman's house. It was in the past the house of municipal Magistrates. This house was built in the seventeenth century.
On leaving the Cutler Craftsman's house, you can turn left into "rue Mancel Chabot". On your right, you will see the very old town hospital. Continue a short distance futher up and on the left, climb the stairs under the "pedde" leading to SAINT GENES Church and admire that fine building restored at the beginning of the eleventh century in the true romanesque style of AUVERGNE. It possesses the largest dome in whole AUVERGNE. SAINT GENES was a teenager coming from the east, and sent by his mother to SAINT SIRENAT, to live with him as a hermit. He was martyred and killed in the town. When his body was discovered on the hill, a church was built for the sake of his memory. The church was built with wood, another was made of stone in the romanesque style. In the fifteenth century the church was transformed into gothic style.
You can see above the altar a painting of CHRIST with a halo. The organ was built by Mercklin. It is now a listed work of art. It was 38 stops and 2400 pipes.
On leaving SAINT GENES church, you go straight ahead, turning right into "rue du Pirou", you should note at no.11 the house of the "Seven Deadly Sins" - from left to right: laziness, anger, envy, greed, lust, miserliness, pride. A little further you pass through the "pedde" of "coin des hasards", the largest of the seven alleys (or pedestrian passage called a pedde). Then, turning left into "rue Alexandre Dumas", you can see at nos 19 and 27 two towers of the first fortification.
No12 and 14: "Tour de Maitre Raymond".
French King Francois the First and the artist Benvenuto Cellini stayed in this house on their way back from the campaign of ITALY.
For those who enjoy magnificent sceneries, we advise you of two brief visits nearby:
a) a panoramic view from the balcony "Terasse du rempart".
b) On crossing the road at the top of Rue du Bourg, you find "Rue Conchette", one of the thoroughfares in the ancient center. In that street you can see the best preserved town residences at nos 4-10-27-46, they date back to sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. They have picturesque courtyards inside.
All information taken from two leaflets from the Tourist Information Office in Thiers, circa 1996.
L'eglise Saint-Genes de Thiers, France
DESCRIPTION
This church is one of the most notable examples of Roman architecture in Auvergne . It has the largest roman style dom in the whole of Auvergne : 101 m2, which is remarkable for a building of the 11th century.
The main nave which is quite wide (31 feet), was probably covered with a roof at first, later it was replaced by the present ribbed vault. It followed the exact shape of the rocky spur on which it was built and formed a large staircase with landings. You can clearly notice this if you observe the lower part of the pillars.
In 1863, when the organ chest was put back, about two feet below the present level, fragments of beautiful merovingian mosaics were discovered, probably the pavement of the church. They were taken off remained in cases for a long time. Unfortunately, only few fragments are left. The church ground was levelled and so the mosaics were buried, probably in the XIIth or XIIIth century .
The side chapels were erected from 1520 onwards as the church was too small for the growing population of the town, owing to the flourishing industry and trade.
Besides the two absidal chapels, the most ancient chapel is in the north side of the transpt. It is remarkable for its fine scluptures and its soaring aspect. On the medaillons of the vault, you can see the four Evangelists and the four cardinal virtues. The keystone represents the arms of the family who had it built. Above the altar, there is a damaged picture of the coronation of the virgin which recalls the coming of the Huguenots in 1568.
The three chapels were built in the early 17th centuty. The canons asked the builders to keep a uniformity of style to preserve the general aspect of the church. The two south chapels were built in stone of Ravel. The third one, called the chapel of the blessed sacrament, was adorned with wood carvings in the 18th century. Its huge baroque altar is the work of a local sculptor, Gilles BUCHOT. On either side are the statues of Saint-Genes with the palm of martyrdom and the statue of Saint-Etienne de Muret, a Baron of Thiers who founded the order of Grandmont.
The church furniture, which was very important under the Old Regime, was scattered during the Revolution. Just a few pieces remain nowadays.
HISTORY
Saint-Genes, to whom this church is dedicated, was a young chistian martyr whose feast is celebrated on October the 28th. According to the tradition, Genes lived with Saint-Syrenat, a patron saint of the parish in the Durolle gorge, and suffrered martyrdom at Thiers.
In 575, this church was built by Saint-Avit, bishop of Clermont, on the spot where the grave of Saint-Genes was miraculously found. Later, it was sacked and was replaced by the present building in 1016, the Baron of Thiers endowed Saint-Genes with a chapter of canons and his successors had the church restored in 1107.
The canons of Thiers were given properties by the Baron and levied taxes on the town and the neighbouring villages.
In the 17th century, the church suffered from the wars of religions. It was taken by the huguenots in 1568 and eventualy saved thanks to merchant of Thiers who paid for the departure of the Protestants. The steeple which was above the transept crossing, seems to have been pulled down at that time.
In the 16th and 17th centuries, the church was enlarged by side-chapels built by private persons or by religious brotherhoods. The canons prescribed the gothic style.
At that time, pillar collapsed and important repairs were undertaken in the church. Lots of masters builder's estimates, dating from the whole of 17th century, can still be found.
The Revolution didn't spoil the building. In the middle of the 19th century the entrance to the church was changed and the west sheltered porch was pulled down. A new organ was erected between 1853 and 1863.
At the end of the century the inside of the church was decorated with paintings, in the taste of the time, which hid the bad state of repair. Unfortunately, through the years the church had been badly damaged and very important repairs had to be undertaken to consolidate the church. That was the opportunity to restore the building inside and to strip the stones of the paint. Then ancient mural paintings, which had been hidden under the coats of paint, were restored. The church was closed for several years and was opened for worship again in November 1981.
Taken from a leaflet obtained in the church circa 1996.
This church is one of the most notable examples of Roman architecture in Auvergne . It has the largest roman style dom in the whole of Auvergne : 101 m2, which is remarkable for a building of the 11th century.
The main nave which is quite wide (31 feet), was probably covered with a roof at first, later it was replaced by the present ribbed vault. It followed the exact shape of the rocky spur on which it was built and formed a large staircase with landings. You can clearly notice this if you observe the lower part of the pillars.
In 1863, when the organ chest was put back, about two feet below the present level, fragments of beautiful merovingian mosaics were discovered, probably the pavement of the church. They were taken off remained in cases for a long time. Unfortunately, only few fragments are left. The church ground was levelled and so the mosaics were buried, probably in the XIIth or XIIIth century .
The side chapels were erected from 1520 onwards as the church was too small for the growing population of the town, owing to the flourishing industry and trade.
Besides the two absidal chapels, the most ancient chapel is in the north side of the transpt. It is remarkable for its fine scluptures and its soaring aspect. On the medaillons of the vault, you can see the four Evangelists and the four cardinal virtues. The keystone represents the arms of the family who had it built. Above the altar, there is a damaged picture of the coronation of the virgin which recalls the coming of the Huguenots in 1568.
The three chapels were built in the early 17th centuty. The canons asked the builders to keep a uniformity of style to preserve the general aspect of the church. The two south chapels were built in stone of Ravel. The third one, called the chapel of the blessed sacrament, was adorned with wood carvings in the 18th century. Its huge baroque altar is the work of a local sculptor, Gilles BUCHOT. On either side are the statues of Saint-Genes with the palm of martyrdom and the statue of Saint-Etienne de Muret, a Baron of Thiers who founded the order of Grandmont.
The church furniture, which was very important under the Old Regime, was scattered during the Revolution. Just a few pieces remain nowadays.
HISTORY
Saint-Genes, to whom this church is dedicated, was a young chistian martyr whose feast is celebrated on October the 28th. According to the tradition, Genes lived with Saint-Syrenat, a patron saint of the parish in the Durolle gorge, and suffrered martyrdom at Thiers.
In 575, this church was built by Saint-Avit, bishop of Clermont, on the spot where the grave of Saint-Genes was miraculously found. Later, it was sacked and was replaced by the present building in 1016, the Baron of Thiers endowed Saint-Genes with a chapter of canons and his successors had the church restored in 1107.
The canons of Thiers were given properties by the Baron and levied taxes on the town and the neighbouring villages.
In the 17th century, the church suffered from the wars of religions. It was taken by the huguenots in 1568 and eventualy saved thanks to merchant of Thiers who paid for the departure of the Protestants. The steeple which was above the transept crossing, seems to have been pulled down at that time.
In the 16th and 17th centuries, the church was enlarged by side-chapels built by private persons or by religious brotherhoods. The canons prescribed the gothic style.
At that time, pillar collapsed and important repairs were undertaken in the church. Lots of masters builder's estimates, dating from the whole of 17th century, can still be found.
The Revolution didn't spoil the building. In the middle of the 19th century the entrance to the church was changed and the west sheltered porch was pulled down. A new organ was erected between 1853 and 1863.
At the end of the century the inside of the church was decorated with paintings, in the taste of the time, which hid the bad state of repair. Unfortunately, through the years the church had been badly damaged and very important repairs had to be undertaken to consolidate the church. That was the opportunity to restore the building inside and to strip the stones of the paint. Then ancient mural paintings, which had been hidden under the coats of paint, were restored. The church was closed for several years and was opened for worship again in November 1981.
Taken from a leaflet obtained in the church circa 1996.
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Chateaux in the Auvergne
The following are taken from a series of tourist information leaflets about Chateaux in the Auvergne in 1998.
Chateau d'Anjony
The chateau of Anjony was built by Louis d'Anjony, one of Jeanne d'Arc's "compagnons" who received instructions from King Charles VIIth to protect the surrounding countryside ; Anjony keep is still here, intact and proud a very characteristic example of the small XVth century mountain fortresses. Its history was tumultuous in the XVth and XVIth centuries, as a genuine vendetta existed between the Anjony family and the Tournemire family, very close neighbours and rivals. A more welcoming and more modern main building was added in the XVIIIth century to the austere medieval construction.
The visitor will see a rich interior decorated with remarkable XVIth century frescoes and furniture from various periods of life in the chateau. The residence has been inhabited by the samne family since its construction.
Located north-east of Aurillac.
Chateau de Saint-Chamant
In a remarkable position overlooking the valley surrounded by the Cantal moutains, the chateau (a classified historical monument) consists of a XVth century keep of military origin, one of the fiefs of Robert de Balsac, the King's Chamberlain, Seneschal of Agenais and Gascony among others. In the XVIIth century, the Lignerac, Dukes of Caylus, built a large main building which now holds a remarkable collection of Aubusson tapestries. The present family has maintained this collection since 1783.
As well as the Aubussons, the visitor can admire XVth century Handers tapestries, a XVllth century reredos in the chapel, the large staircase and the wainscoting. The whole collection is classified.
Located NE of Aurillac.
Chateau de Pesteils
Majestically poised on a steep rock, the ancient "fortress of Polminac" proudly
overlooks the Cere Valley. Fourty meters high and crowned with machicolation, the imposing dungeon symbolises the past glory of the castle of Pesteils and evokes
the Middle Ages. The 17th century added many beautiful painted ceilings to the castle
main body. Beautiful antique furniture can be admired throughout the whole castle. Enlarged and renovated in the 19th century, the castle has been the property of the de Cassagne de Miramon Pesteils family since 1608. The de Cassagne de Miramon Pesteils family live in the castle to this day.
Located NE of Aurillac.
Chateau de la Tremoliere
Situated in the village of Anglards de Salers, this chateau which was built in the XVth century, was the seat of a seigniory belonging to the Montclar family. On both floors there is an exhibition of tapestries known as "d'Anglards de Salers", and XVIth century Aubusson tapestries showing trees, discovered at the beginning of the 20th century by the parish priest and restored in 1926. These exceptional tapestries depict a bestiary as naive as it is picturesque, but also unicorns, dragons, villages and chateaux, all forming a warm decor contrasting with the finely painted XVIIIth century wainscoting.
Chateau de Sedaiges
A military stronghold dating from the 12th century, Sedaiges was witness to and participated in the battles between the English and French in the Auvergne of medieval times. Reconstructed as a fortress in the 15th century and then embellished in the 18th, this impressive castle is also a unique example of 19th century "troubadour" architecture. Having remained in the same family throughout its history, its spectacular decor has been preserved intact.
Located near Marmanhac.
Chateau de Villeneuve-Lembron
The chateau was built during the Renaissance by Rigaud d'Aureille who was a butler of Kings Louis XI, Charles VII, Louis XII and Francois I. The chateau is symmetrical, built around a square tower which is surrounded by arcades. The Lord's apartment contains a gallery decorated with famous XIVth and XVIIth century frescoes: satirical themes of the times called "Chiche Face", and "La Bicorne", allegorical scenes, philosophical illustrations of the "vieil homme de cours" (the old courtier) and friezes showing coats-of-arms. There are large stables decorated with mythological themes showing the joys of nature opposed to the violence of war.
Chateau de Chateaugay
This fortified chateau which towers so majestically over its village, is the famous chateau of Vigosche today called Chateaugay. Its beautiful architecture is of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance period. The XIVth century keep which is completely intact has never been restored. From the top of is 162 steps you can see the "Chaine des Puys" (mountain range), the Limagne plains and Tournoel. This "gay" chateau (hence Chateaugay) has nevertheless witnessed several sordid affairs: Pierre II de Giac poisoned his wife, the mistress of Jean Sans Peur, in 1426. For lighter memories of the place, we have only to think of the unpretentious Chateaugay wine which Henry IV, it is said, held in high esteem. In the Gaycoeur wine-cellar on the ground floor of the keep, this "Auverne nectar" can be sampled.
Located north of Clermont-Ferrand.
Chateau de Vollore
Vollore has been known in the history of Auvergne since the VIth century when Thierry, the son of Clovis besieged it in 532. The fortress, whose imposing Romanesque keep still exists today, was built in the XIIth century by the ancient Vollore family. The chateau was then passed on to families from Thiers, and Chazeron, and in the XVIIth century the Montmorin family transformed it and gave it its present aspect. Vollore has been in the same family for two centuries and is today the home of the descendants of le General de la Fayette in Auvergne.
Chateau de Lespinasse
This fortress was standing before the 12th century. It has always been lived in, and escaped destruction and bad restorations. It is the most ancient monument in the region of Brioude. In 1110 a tower was built to protect the castle against the English. In 1187, the Chevalier d'Aure, Seigneur de Lespinasse, was a companion of Philippe Auguste, King of France during the third Crusade. In 1358, the ancient round tower was changed into a square keep by Chevalier Erard I d'Aure, with the premission of Louis II de Bourbon. His son, Louis, married in 1425 la Dauphine Jeanne d'Auvergne when she was 15 and whose father had died at the battle of Azincourt. At this period were built the round towers and the rempart wall. On the lintel of the main room of the first floor, the engraved blason d'Auvergne can always be seen as a testimony of this princely wedding. On April 1786, Joseph de Lespinasse sold the Marquisat of Langeac to General La Fayette for 18,800 livres.
Chateau de Ravel
The castle of Ravel dates from 1147 and its first occupant was Pierre de Ravel. It became a royal residence under Philippe III le Hardi and Philippe le Bel. It was later inherited by the Chauvigny, d'Amboise, de la Rochefoucault, Combourcier du Terrail and the d'Estaing families. It was bought in 1806 by Charles de Riberolles de Beaucene, and the same family owns it to this day. This powerful fortress of the Middle Ages with its XIIIth century keep and its five towers, one of which is octagonal was embellished at the end of the XVIIIth century by the Amiral d'Estaing who left several nautical souvenirs.
Located 6 km SW of Thiers.
Chateau de Parentignat
Chateau de Parentignat is the ancestral home of the Marquis de Lastic. Built in 1707 by Francois de Lastic, Captain of the "Roy Infanterie" regiment, on the foundations of an old fortified house. A terrace borded by centernial orange trees and rose bushes overhangs the chateau's wonderful "parc a l'Anglaise". A striking contract is provided by the magnificent drive-way, the "cour d'honneur", with its architectural precision of the six lawn parterres in their original 18th century style and the lime tree walk planted in the perspective of the facade. Already cited in the 18th century as one of the most richly decorated houses in the area, the chateau was baptised by Henry Pourrat, the famous Auvergnat writer, as the "little Versailles of Auvergne". Spared by the French revolution, one still finds some of the original furnishing.
Chateau Dauphin
The chateau Dauphin is a very well preserved example of medieval military architecture, built in the XIIth century by Robert Dauphin, Count of Auvergne, to defend the Sioule bridge, and completed in the XVth century by Field-Marshal Gilbert III de la Fayette. Of these buildings only the keep and six towers remain. The chateau is inhabited by descendants of the More de Pontgibaud family who have owned it since 1756. The interior was restored to its former character by Count Cesar III at the end of the XIXth century.
Located near Pontgibaud.
Chateau d'Opme
This fortress held the mountain pass leading from Clermont to Le Puy-en-Velay and belonged to the Counts, and then the Dauphins of Auvergne. Its original construction dates back to the end of the 11th century, making it one of the oldest castle in Auvergne. Built around an inner courtyard, the living quarters were surrounded by five towers, three of which remain today. In the 13th century a square keep replaced one of the corner towers. The chateau was captured by the English in 1381 and freed in 1393 by Marshals Bouciaut and Sancerre. In 1613 Antoinde de Ribeyre, Treasurer of France, became the owner of Opme and carried out considerable works, respecting the style of the period. A main entrance and inside staircase were built and large windows with mullions were opened up, marking the fortress, once so austere, brighter and more elegant. Finally the Ribeyres had two terraced gardens set out in the south, in the style of Le Notre, one with a circular pond, and the other with a Renaissance fountain believed to be designed by Androuet du Cerceau.
Located south of Clermont-Ferrand.
Chateau de la Batisse
At the foot of the famous Gergovie plateau, on the green banks of a river, as beautiful as an engraving, La Batisse stands surrounded by French-style gardens designed by Le Notre. With its ornamental lakes and its fountain-basins, the charm of its rocky caves and its maze of hedges, its famous path leading to four water-falls, la Batisse and the park together form a harmonious ensemble. Built between the XVth to the XVIIIth centuries, the interior offers the visitor a view of a beautiful suite of apartments decorated with frescoes and tapestries, and intersting pieces of XVIth, XVIIth and XVIIIth century furniture.
Chateau de Conros
Conros has stood since the Middle Ages on a rocky spur overlooking the river Cere which winds through magnificent wild countryside. The imposing medieval keep, flanked by a main building and two round towers one of which has machicolation and a pepperbox turret, was transformed during the Renaissance into a majestic residence. Conros has been inhabited by the same family for more than four centuries.
Located east of Aurillac.
Chateau de Saint-Vidal
This imposing fortress in the valley of the river Borne was the fief of the de la Tour de Saint-Vidal family. Originally, in the 13th century, it was a fortified house which the Saint-Vidals extended in the 14th and 15th centuries. It was converted in the 16th century by Antoine II de la Tour de Saint-Vidal, and adapted for artillery with a keep being added to the existing three towers; a defensive wall was also built. Antoine II de Saint-Vidal was appointed Governor of Velay and Gevaudan. As Head of the League he fought the protestants and rebelled against Henry IV who had Saint-Vidal besieged in 1591. The castle has kept its feudal origins with its vaulted cellars and a pointed style kitchen with enormous fireplaces.
Chateau Lavoute-Polignac
For one thousand years and more, Lavoute Polignac has been dominating the Loire river. Extended in the 13th and 14th centuries, modified in the 16th and 17th centuries, the dwelling place is well proportioned, sober and graceful adorned with a Renaissance garden, and boasts an important art collection which belongs to the famous Polignac family.
Located north of Le Puy-en-Velay.
Chateau d'Anjony
The chateau of Anjony was built by Louis d'Anjony, one of Jeanne d'Arc's "compagnons" who received instructions from King Charles VIIth to protect the surrounding countryside ; Anjony keep is still here, intact and proud a very characteristic example of the small XVth century mountain fortresses. Its history was tumultuous in the XVth and XVIth centuries, as a genuine vendetta existed between the Anjony family and the Tournemire family, very close neighbours and rivals. A more welcoming and more modern main building was added in the XVIIIth century to the austere medieval construction.
The visitor will see a rich interior decorated with remarkable XVIth century frescoes and furniture from various periods of life in the chateau. The residence has been inhabited by the samne family since its construction.
Located north-east of Aurillac.
Chateau de Saint-Chamant
In a remarkable position overlooking the valley surrounded by the Cantal moutains, the chateau (a classified historical monument) consists of a XVth century keep of military origin, one of the fiefs of Robert de Balsac, the King's Chamberlain, Seneschal of Agenais and Gascony among others. In the XVIIth century, the Lignerac, Dukes of Caylus, built a large main building which now holds a remarkable collection of Aubusson tapestries. The present family has maintained this collection since 1783.
As well as the Aubussons, the visitor can admire XVth century Handers tapestries, a XVllth century reredos in the chapel, the large staircase and the wainscoting. The whole collection is classified.
Located NE of Aurillac.
Chateau de Pesteils
Majestically poised on a steep rock, the ancient "fortress of Polminac" proudly
overlooks the Cere Valley. Fourty meters high and crowned with machicolation, the imposing dungeon symbolises the past glory of the castle of Pesteils and evokes
the Middle Ages. The 17th century added many beautiful painted ceilings to the castle
main body. Beautiful antique furniture can be admired throughout the whole castle. Enlarged and renovated in the 19th century, the castle has been the property of the de Cassagne de Miramon Pesteils family since 1608. The de Cassagne de Miramon Pesteils family live in the castle to this day.
Located NE of Aurillac.
Chateau de la Tremoliere
Situated in the village of Anglards de Salers, this chateau which was built in the XVth century, was the seat of a seigniory belonging to the Montclar family. On both floors there is an exhibition of tapestries known as "d'Anglards de Salers", and XVIth century Aubusson tapestries showing trees, discovered at the beginning of the 20th century by the parish priest and restored in 1926. These exceptional tapestries depict a bestiary as naive as it is picturesque, but also unicorns, dragons, villages and chateaux, all forming a warm decor contrasting with the finely painted XVIIIth century wainscoting.
Chateau de Sedaiges
A military stronghold dating from the 12th century, Sedaiges was witness to and participated in the battles between the English and French in the Auvergne of medieval times. Reconstructed as a fortress in the 15th century and then embellished in the 18th, this impressive castle is also a unique example of 19th century "troubadour" architecture. Having remained in the same family throughout its history, its spectacular decor has been preserved intact.
Located near Marmanhac.
Chateau de Villeneuve-Lembron
The chateau was built during the Renaissance by Rigaud d'Aureille who was a butler of Kings Louis XI, Charles VII, Louis XII and Francois I. The chateau is symmetrical, built around a square tower which is surrounded by arcades. The Lord's apartment contains a gallery decorated with famous XIVth and XVIIth century frescoes: satirical themes of the times called "Chiche Face", and "La Bicorne", allegorical scenes, philosophical illustrations of the "vieil homme de cours" (the old courtier) and friezes showing coats-of-arms. There are large stables decorated with mythological themes showing the joys of nature opposed to the violence of war.
Chateau de Chateaugay
This fortified chateau which towers so majestically over its village, is the famous chateau of Vigosche today called Chateaugay. Its beautiful architecture is of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance period. The XIVth century keep which is completely intact has never been restored. From the top of is 162 steps you can see the "Chaine des Puys" (mountain range), the Limagne plains and Tournoel. This "gay" chateau (hence Chateaugay) has nevertheless witnessed several sordid affairs: Pierre II de Giac poisoned his wife, the mistress of Jean Sans Peur, in 1426. For lighter memories of the place, we have only to think of the unpretentious Chateaugay wine which Henry IV, it is said, held in high esteem. In the Gaycoeur wine-cellar on the ground floor of the keep, this "Auverne nectar" can be sampled.
Located north of Clermont-Ferrand.
Chateau de Vollore
Vollore has been known in the history of Auvergne since the VIth century when Thierry, the son of Clovis besieged it in 532. The fortress, whose imposing Romanesque keep still exists today, was built in the XIIth century by the ancient Vollore family. The chateau was then passed on to families from Thiers, and Chazeron, and in the XVIIth century the Montmorin family transformed it and gave it its present aspect. Vollore has been in the same family for two centuries and is today the home of the descendants of le General de la Fayette in Auvergne.
Chateau de Lespinasse
This fortress was standing before the 12th century. It has always been lived in, and escaped destruction and bad restorations. It is the most ancient monument in the region of Brioude. In 1110 a tower was built to protect the castle against the English. In 1187, the Chevalier d'Aure, Seigneur de Lespinasse, was a companion of Philippe Auguste, King of France during the third Crusade. In 1358, the ancient round tower was changed into a square keep by Chevalier Erard I d'Aure, with the premission of Louis II de Bourbon. His son, Louis, married in 1425 la Dauphine Jeanne d'Auvergne when she was 15 and whose father had died at the battle of Azincourt. At this period were built the round towers and the rempart wall. On the lintel of the main room of the first floor, the engraved blason d'Auvergne can always be seen as a testimony of this princely wedding. On April 1786, Joseph de Lespinasse sold the Marquisat of Langeac to General La Fayette for 18,800 livres.
Chateau de Ravel
The castle of Ravel dates from 1147 and its first occupant was Pierre de Ravel. It became a royal residence under Philippe III le Hardi and Philippe le Bel. It was later inherited by the Chauvigny, d'Amboise, de la Rochefoucault, Combourcier du Terrail and the d'Estaing families. It was bought in 1806 by Charles de Riberolles de Beaucene, and the same family owns it to this day. This powerful fortress of the Middle Ages with its XIIIth century keep and its five towers, one of which is octagonal was embellished at the end of the XVIIIth century by the Amiral d'Estaing who left several nautical souvenirs.
Located 6 km SW of Thiers.
Chateau de Parentignat
Chateau de Parentignat is the ancestral home of the Marquis de Lastic. Built in 1707 by Francois de Lastic, Captain of the "Roy Infanterie" regiment, on the foundations of an old fortified house. A terrace borded by centernial orange trees and rose bushes overhangs the chateau's wonderful "parc a l'Anglaise". A striking contract is provided by the magnificent drive-way, the "cour d'honneur", with its architectural precision of the six lawn parterres in their original 18th century style and the lime tree walk planted in the perspective of the facade. Already cited in the 18th century as one of the most richly decorated houses in the area, the chateau was baptised by Henry Pourrat, the famous Auvergnat writer, as the "little Versailles of Auvergne". Spared by the French revolution, one still finds some of the original furnishing.
Chateau Dauphin
The chateau Dauphin is a very well preserved example of medieval military architecture, built in the XIIth century by Robert Dauphin, Count of Auvergne, to defend the Sioule bridge, and completed in the XVth century by Field-Marshal Gilbert III de la Fayette. Of these buildings only the keep and six towers remain. The chateau is inhabited by descendants of the More de Pontgibaud family who have owned it since 1756. The interior was restored to its former character by Count Cesar III at the end of the XIXth century.
Located near Pontgibaud.
Chateau d'Opme
This fortress held the mountain pass leading from Clermont to Le Puy-en-Velay and belonged to the Counts, and then the Dauphins of Auvergne. Its original construction dates back to the end of the 11th century, making it one of the oldest castle in Auvergne. Built around an inner courtyard, the living quarters were surrounded by five towers, three of which remain today. In the 13th century a square keep replaced one of the corner towers. The chateau was captured by the English in 1381 and freed in 1393 by Marshals Bouciaut and Sancerre. In 1613 Antoinde de Ribeyre, Treasurer of France, became the owner of Opme and carried out considerable works, respecting the style of the period. A main entrance and inside staircase were built and large windows with mullions were opened up, marking the fortress, once so austere, brighter and more elegant. Finally the Ribeyres had two terraced gardens set out in the south, in the style of Le Notre, one with a circular pond, and the other with a Renaissance fountain believed to be designed by Androuet du Cerceau.
Located south of Clermont-Ferrand.
Chateau de la Batisse
At the foot of the famous Gergovie plateau, on the green banks of a river, as beautiful as an engraving, La Batisse stands surrounded by French-style gardens designed by Le Notre. With its ornamental lakes and its fountain-basins, the charm of its rocky caves and its maze of hedges, its famous path leading to four water-falls, la Batisse and the park together form a harmonious ensemble. Built between the XVth to the XVIIIth centuries, the interior offers the visitor a view of a beautiful suite of apartments decorated with frescoes and tapestries, and intersting pieces of XVIth, XVIIth and XVIIIth century furniture.
Chateau de Conros
Conros has stood since the Middle Ages on a rocky spur overlooking the river Cere which winds through magnificent wild countryside. The imposing medieval keep, flanked by a main building and two round towers one of which has machicolation and a pepperbox turret, was transformed during the Renaissance into a majestic residence. Conros has been inhabited by the same family for more than four centuries.
Located east of Aurillac.
Chateau de Saint-Vidal
This imposing fortress in the valley of the river Borne was the fief of the de la Tour de Saint-Vidal family. Originally, in the 13th century, it was a fortified house which the Saint-Vidals extended in the 14th and 15th centuries. It was converted in the 16th century by Antoine II de la Tour de Saint-Vidal, and adapted for artillery with a keep being added to the existing three towers; a defensive wall was also built. Antoine II de Saint-Vidal was appointed Governor of Velay and Gevaudan. As Head of the League he fought the protestants and rebelled against Henry IV who had Saint-Vidal besieged in 1591. The castle has kept its feudal origins with its vaulted cellars and a pointed style kitchen with enormous fireplaces.
Chateau Lavoute-Polignac
For one thousand years and more, Lavoute Polignac has been dominating the Loire river. Extended in the 13th and 14th centuries, modified in the 16th and 17th centuries, the dwelling place is well proportioned, sober and graceful adorned with a Renaissance garden, and boasts an important art collection which belongs to the famous Polignac family.
Located north of Le Puy-en-Velay.
Monday, October 5, 2009
St Peter's Church, Shaftesbury
St Peter's is the oldest church in Shaftesbury, where there were eleven churches in mediaeval times. It was built at the top of Gold Hill as a pilgrim church outside the wall of the Benedictine Abbey. John Schip is the first known incumbent (1305). There is evidence of an earlier building on this site, confirmed by the recent discovery of ancient foundations under the nave floor.
Of the present structure, the lower part of the tower is the oldest; the Nave and its arcades are of the 14th century, the Clerestory was added in the 15th/16th centuries. The panelled oak roofs of the Nave and the North Aisle are also of the same date. When restoration took place the North Parapet could not be retained due to the poor state of the stone.
It is evident the town experienced great poverty in the 14th and 15th centuries, and St Peter's parish was the poorest of all. Taxes could not be maintained and the French war and then the Black Death of 1348 - 1357 which deprived the town of masons and depleted the population were major disasters. •Strangely enough, money seemed to be available at the beginning and end of each century; and to these periods are assigned the decorated and perpendicular styles of building in the church; cl300, c1400, cl500.
Entrance
The North door opens into a lobby, the walls of which have been skilfully constructed from an oak panelled reredos from Holy Trinity Church in Bimport, the former parish church of Shaftesbury. Above the roof of the lobby are some mediaeval beach ends.
The Tower
The lowest part of the tower is the oldest part of the church, dating from 1304. Its proportions are unusually wide and squat In the tower are six bells with the following inscriptions;
1. "A wonder great my eye I fix. where was but 3 you may see six". 1684 T.P.
2. "When I do ring, prepare to pray". RATE. 1670.
3 and 4. William Cocky of Frome. 1738.
5. "While thus we join in chearful sound, may love and loyalty abound". H. Oram. c warden. R. Wells Aldboume. fecit MDCCLXVI.
6. "When you hear for me to tolle, then pray to God to save the soul". Anno Domini 1672, TH/RW/CW/TP.
The bells are recognised as some of the best in Dorset. They were rehung in 1926.
Font
An interesting 15th century Font of Purbeck marble with an earlier base, can be seen, in the North Aisle. This was moved to its present position in the 1970s, when the church was renovated. Hutchins, the antiquarian, identified an engraving of a Font from Holy Trinity Church. This is thought to be the one now in St Peter's.
North Aisle
The ceiling was restored, and the windows reglazed also in the 1970s renovations. There are several niches on the North and East walls for the figures of saints, indicating the positions of previous chantry altars. Obits were recorded here, masses recited for the dead and alms distributed to the poor. At the east end, there is a brass relating to Stephen Payne Armiger, died 1509, son of Richard Payne, the last steward of the Abbey.
North Arcade
By the far west column there is a pit in the floor (press the switch on the plinth of the column to illuminate). You will see one of the oldest worked stones in Shaftesbury - now part of the arcade foundation - formerly from the shaft of a column in an earlier building on the site. Experts have expressed the opinion that it is not later than the 12th century, probably very much earlier.
Nave Chancel
There are four pointed arches on each side with perpendicular columns and rather crude capitals. The clerestory and the windows are of a later date. Look up and observe the oak-beamed, oak panelled roof. The 15th century East window contains some painted or stained glass, formerly in the North Aisle: -
1. Our Lady at a desk,
2. The emblem of the Trinity.
3. The five wounds.
4. Coat of arms of the Fitzjames family (Sir John Fitzjames was chief justice of the King's bench, who died in 1538).
On the East wall, the late 18th century Reredos thought to have come from Holy Trinity Church. As the Holy Trinity Church was rebuilt in 1842, it was probably in an earlier building on that site. Note the well-preserved gold lettering.
The Pulpit has been made from an earlier three-decker pulpit.
South Aisle
The South Aisle was originally similar in width and construction to the North Aisle. It was widened in the 18th or 19th century. The present roof of modem construction replaces the old one which was on the point of collapse-It was painted, and new mouldings fitted, in 1990. There was at one time a gallery along the South wall, used by the Blue-coat School boys. Panelling on the East wall has been reconstructed from panels from the old pulpit and others on the South wall.
The British Legion War Memorial from Holy Trinity has been adapted to fit in the South wall with panelling taken from the same church.
The platform in the South-west comer was constructed to support a pipe organ which has been built incorporating parts from the Holy Trinity organ.
The Organ - Notes provided by Organist, Barry Ferguson
This 3-manual and pedal instrument has been built and maintained by Deny Thompson, of Bridport It consists entirely of parts from several redundant organs of which the Case, Pedal Bourdon and its chest, and the keyboards came from Holy Trinity Church nearby, as well as nine ranks of pipes. The Swell organ soundboard and swell box came from St Augustine's, Bournemouth; the Oboe units from St Martin's, Bryanston, and the console shell from Lyme Regis Roman Catholic Church. The Choir Tremulant was a Christmas present in 1994 from an anonymous donor.
Deny Thompson continues to carry out subtle tonal adjustments and improvements. This fine instrument, like the church itself, is bright, clear and intimate in quality.
The Crypt
This was sold to the church authorities in 1907 for the sum of £50. Previously this was a cellar used by the Sun & Moon Inn next door, now a private house. The staircase leading to the Crypt chapel has been reconstructed to obtain headroom under the organ.
By the half-landing is a sealed doorway with Queen Anne's Coat of Arms above. It formerly connected the church to an earlier building on the site of the Sun & Moon Cottage in Gold Hill, probably a clergy house.
At the foot of the stairs is a squint.
Items in the Crypt:
The curved oak beam opposite the stairs is over a former fireplace in which the ale was probably brewed.
The big relieving arch spans a large mediaeval pit, some 10 ft across, which was excavated to a depth of several feet.
A similar, but smaller, pit was found here. (The floor of the Crypt has been reconstructed with reinforced concrete).
At the Eastern end of the Crypt, observe the indents near the ceiling which formerly took the joists of the old floor.
The visitor should now return to the area under the tower.
Commemorative Plaque
This records gratitude to those who were instrumental in the work of restoration.
West Door
Over the West door is a hatchment brought from Holy Trinity Church, and the Coat of Arms of George II.
West Porch
The West door was the main entrance until the Guildhall was erected alongside the church in 1827. The porch has a handsome fan vaulted ceiling of Tudor design, a holy water stoup and some oak gates dating from 1753.
Outside
After leaving by the North door, turn left to the nearby comer of the North Aisle;. look up and you will see the "Sleeping Monk", a legendary figure, possibly a holy water stoup.
The weather-vane on the Tower was erected by the Friends of St Peter's in 1975.
From a leaflet obtained in the church circa 2006.
Of the present structure, the lower part of the tower is the oldest; the Nave and its arcades are of the 14th century, the Clerestory was added in the 15th/16th centuries. The panelled oak roofs of the Nave and the North Aisle are also of the same date. When restoration took place the North Parapet could not be retained due to the poor state of the stone.
It is evident the town experienced great poverty in the 14th and 15th centuries, and St Peter's parish was the poorest of all. Taxes could not be maintained and the French war and then the Black Death of 1348 - 1357 which deprived the town of masons and depleted the population were major disasters. •Strangely enough, money seemed to be available at the beginning and end of each century; and to these periods are assigned the decorated and perpendicular styles of building in the church; cl300, c1400, cl500.
Entrance
The North door opens into a lobby, the walls of which have been skilfully constructed from an oak panelled reredos from Holy Trinity Church in Bimport, the former parish church of Shaftesbury. Above the roof of the lobby are some mediaeval beach ends.
The Tower
The lowest part of the tower is the oldest part of the church, dating from 1304. Its proportions are unusually wide and squat In the tower are six bells with the following inscriptions;
1. "A wonder great my eye I fix. where was but 3 you may see six". 1684 T.P.
2. "When I do ring, prepare to pray". RATE. 1670.
3 and 4. William Cocky of Frome. 1738.
5. "While thus we join in chearful sound, may love and loyalty abound". H. Oram. c warden. R. Wells Aldboume. fecit MDCCLXVI.
6. "When you hear for me to tolle, then pray to God to save the soul". Anno Domini 1672, TH/RW/CW/TP.
The bells are recognised as some of the best in Dorset. They were rehung in 1926.
Font
An interesting 15th century Font of Purbeck marble with an earlier base, can be seen, in the North Aisle. This was moved to its present position in the 1970s, when the church was renovated. Hutchins, the antiquarian, identified an engraving of a Font from Holy Trinity Church. This is thought to be the one now in St Peter's.
North Aisle
The ceiling was restored, and the windows reglazed also in the 1970s renovations. There are several niches on the North and East walls for the figures of saints, indicating the positions of previous chantry altars. Obits were recorded here, masses recited for the dead and alms distributed to the poor. At the east end, there is a brass relating to Stephen Payne Armiger, died 1509, son of Richard Payne, the last steward of the Abbey.
North Arcade
By the far west column there is a pit in the floor (press the switch on the plinth of the column to illuminate). You will see one of the oldest worked stones in Shaftesbury - now part of the arcade foundation - formerly from the shaft of a column in an earlier building on the site. Experts have expressed the opinion that it is not later than the 12th century, probably very much earlier.
Nave Chancel
There are four pointed arches on each side with perpendicular columns and rather crude capitals. The clerestory and the windows are of a later date. Look up and observe the oak-beamed, oak panelled roof. The 15th century East window contains some painted or stained glass, formerly in the North Aisle: -
1. Our Lady at a desk,
2. The emblem of the Trinity.
3. The five wounds.
4. Coat of arms of the Fitzjames family (Sir John Fitzjames was chief justice of the King's bench, who died in 1538).
On the East wall, the late 18th century Reredos thought to have come from Holy Trinity Church. As the Holy Trinity Church was rebuilt in 1842, it was probably in an earlier building on that site. Note the well-preserved gold lettering.
The Pulpit has been made from an earlier three-decker pulpit.
South Aisle
The South Aisle was originally similar in width and construction to the North Aisle. It was widened in the 18th or 19th century. The present roof of modem construction replaces the old one which was on the point of collapse-It was painted, and new mouldings fitted, in 1990. There was at one time a gallery along the South wall, used by the Blue-coat School boys. Panelling on the East wall has been reconstructed from panels from the old pulpit and others on the South wall.
The British Legion War Memorial from Holy Trinity has been adapted to fit in the South wall with panelling taken from the same church.
The platform in the South-west comer was constructed to support a pipe organ which has been built incorporating parts from the Holy Trinity organ.
The Organ - Notes provided by Organist, Barry Ferguson
This 3-manual and pedal instrument has been built and maintained by Deny Thompson, of Bridport It consists entirely of parts from several redundant organs of which the Case, Pedal Bourdon and its chest, and the keyboards came from Holy Trinity Church nearby, as well as nine ranks of pipes. The Swell organ soundboard and swell box came from St Augustine's, Bournemouth; the Oboe units from St Martin's, Bryanston, and the console shell from Lyme Regis Roman Catholic Church. The Choir Tremulant was a Christmas present in 1994 from an anonymous donor.
Deny Thompson continues to carry out subtle tonal adjustments and improvements. This fine instrument, like the church itself, is bright, clear and intimate in quality.
The Crypt
This was sold to the church authorities in 1907 for the sum of £50. Previously this was a cellar used by the Sun & Moon Inn next door, now a private house. The staircase leading to the Crypt chapel has been reconstructed to obtain headroom under the organ.
By the half-landing is a sealed doorway with Queen Anne's Coat of Arms above. It formerly connected the church to an earlier building on the site of the Sun & Moon Cottage in Gold Hill, probably a clergy house.
At the foot of the stairs is a squint.
Items in the Crypt:
The curved oak beam opposite the stairs is over a former fireplace in which the ale was probably brewed.
The big relieving arch spans a large mediaeval pit, some 10 ft across, which was excavated to a depth of several feet.
A similar, but smaller, pit was found here. (The floor of the Crypt has been reconstructed with reinforced concrete).
At the Eastern end of the Crypt, observe the indents near the ceiling which formerly took the joists of the old floor.
The visitor should now return to the area under the tower.
Commemorative Plaque
This records gratitude to those who were instrumental in the work of restoration.
West Door
Over the West door is a hatchment brought from Holy Trinity Church, and the Coat of Arms of George II.
West Porch
The West door was the main entrance until the Guildhall was erected alongside the church in 1827. The porch has a handsome fan vaulted ceiling of Tudor design, a holy water stoup and some oak gates dating from 1753.
Outside
After leaving by the North door, turn left to the nearby comer of the North Aisle;. look up and you will see the "Sleeping Monk", a legendary figure, possibly a holy water stoup.
The weather-vane on the Tower was erected by the Friends of St Peter's in 1975.
From a leaflet obtained in the church circa 2006.
The Citadel of Montreuil-sur-Mer, France
The citadel of Montreuil is built on a 50 meter rise which dominates the Canche valley. With its natural defence provided by the Canche marshes to the north and the dry valley of the Madelaine to the west, it is joined to the town in the south east. Construction of the citadel began in 1567. It is a complex structure which was die result of seven different campaigns of construction. It succeeds the early XIIIth century royal castle, of which some elements remain. Built straddling the limits of the town, it has two distinct fronts of attack, one facing the town and the other facing open country. Altered several times up to the end of the XIXth century the citadel was de-militarised in 1929, three years after being classified as a Historical Monument.
The gate
The principal entrance to the citadel faces the town. The engineers have placed an accumulation of obstacles in front of this vulnerable point. The gate is framed by two half-bastions. Under Vauban, this system was complemented by a demi-lune, an advanced triangular shaped fortification work which protects the two curtains between the two bastions. The gate is composed of two separate openings, a carriage gateway and a postern gate which is now walled up, an arrangement which is a vestige of the Middle Ages. Access to the citadel was defended by a cantilever draw-bridge, which was replaced by an earth embankment in 1894. The gate retains the embrasures through which the cantilever arms, wooden beams connected to the drawbridge by chains, operated. Inside, the archway and the walls still bear the traces of the vertical channels within which a portcullis operated. The whole is completed by a guard-house which was added in the XVIIIth century.
The Castle of Philippe Auguste
After the entry of the town into the royal domain in 987 on the accession of Hugues Capet, a royal castle was built. It is first mentioned with certainty in 1042.
Until 1204, Montreuil was die only royal possession in the north of France. This strategic position very quickly placed the town at the heart of a conflict between the Capetians and the English Plantagenets, allied to the Counts of Flanders, of Boulogne and Ponthieu. This threat persuaded Philippe Auguste to build a new royal castle which is in part preserved within the 1567 citadel.
Two massive towers bracket the broken arch entrance. This polygonal castle, in the image of the slightly later one at Boulogne-sur-Mer, was separated from the town by a ditch. At each of its angles there was a salient, multi-level, round tower, with radiating archery slits. Originally built exclusively in sandstone, the various defensive changes of the XVIth century have necessitated the reconstruction of the upper parts in brick.
Queen Berthe's tower
This gate tower which is equipped with many systems of defence, has served as access to the town of Montreuil-sur-Mer for a long period. It was called the castle gate because of its proximity to Philippe Auguste's castle. Built in the middle of the XIVth. century its volume and the thickness of its walls are the solution provided by its architects to the evolution in the means of attack and especially the significant development of the cannon. During the construction of the citadel, this gate which gives access directly to the interior of the fortress, was judged to be dangerous and was closed as early as 1599. It preserves the memory of Berthe of Holland, wife of Philippe 1st, the King of France, who was repudiated in 1091 and who died at Montreuil in 1094. Legend has it that she was locked up in this tower.
Tower E
In the XVth Century, progress in artillery forced military engineers to imagine makeshift solutions. The technique developed was the raising of masses of earth behind walls in order to make them more resistant to cannon fire. The height of the curtains and of the towers was reduced to present a smaller target for the enemy's projectiles. The towers were filled with earth to provide solid emplacements for artillery pieces. Tower E illustrates this architectural evolution. Originally completely in sandstone and taller, it was refaced in brick at the end of the XVth century.
The bastions of the citadel
Italian engineers provided a final response to the problem of artillery by inventing the bastion. The circular hollow towers were replaced by vast pentagonal fortification works filled with earth on which multiple cannons were sited. These bastions axe separated by curtains which they protect with their fire. Their angular de¬sign permits the resolution of the problem of dead ground. From this time on the enemy was exposed to the defender's fire, whatever their position.
In the XVIth. Century, the proximity of the frontier of the Spanish low-countries, a dozen kilometers from Montreuil, induced King Charles IX (1559-1574) to improve the defences of the town. In 1567, he built a citadel with five bastions. Its design in the shape of a star, represented the latest innovations in terms of defence. The safety exit, built at the extremity of the bastion as an extension of the castle gate, provides an exit to the country in case of an attack on the town.
As in all the citadels built at the same time, the body of the fortress is enclosed by advanced defensive works designed to slow the progress of the attacker and to delay the crossing of the ditch. On the outside edge of the ditch, the covered way houses defenders armed with muskets protecting the glacis, vast areas of slightly sloped terrain arranged around the fortress.
The White Tower
It is the colour of the chalk that gives its name to the White Tower. This tower was part of the town before being absorbed into the citadel. Rebuilt around 1500, it has kept its XIIIth century sandstone base with its archery slits. The ground floor, with its ogival roof vaults illustrates the adaptation of the new techniques of defence. The archery slits have here given way to cannon ports, circular openings surmounted by observation slits. On the second floor, the guard-house topped, by a pepper-pot roof, has given in to the desire for comfort and has several windows and a fireplace.
The rampart-walk
Its construction in the XVIth. century required the lowering of the towers of the royal castle. It is supported by a series of massive brick arches. Without any real defensive advantage in modern times, it facilitates movement along the northern front of attack. Its commanding position over the surroundings allowed warnings of attack to be given. From the rampart-walk can be seen from the east to the west, the lighthouse at le Touquet, the sea-side towns, the wind farm at Widehem, la Canche, the Carthusian monastery of Notre-Dame des Pres at Neuville-sous-Montreuil and the forest of Hesdin.
The casemates
Integrated into the bastion, the casemates are made up of five chambers arranged in line, covered by cradle vaulted ceilings. Each chamber was built or two levels separated by a moveable floor, which is today no longer present. The firing slits are surmounted by an opening which permitted the evacuation of the gun-smoke They ensured the defence of the ditch nearest to the fortification.
Their construction was ordered in 1844 by Louis Philippe 1st who feared an attack on France by Prussia. During the first world war they housed the communications centre of the British General Headquarters in Europe.
The arsenal
The citadel of Montreuil is equipped with an arsenal, a building housing arms and military equipment. Built in the reign of Louis XIV, it originally had two floors.
The chapel
The chapel dates from 1764. This rectangular building has a neo-classical facade.
The powder magazine
Constructed around 1670, the powder magazine is built on the lines of those of Vauban in the Alps, particularly that at Mount Dauphin.
It is surrounded by an isolation wall, through which there is an entrance defended by a sentry-box. The building is braced by nine massive buttresses with a passage between them and the building. The roof vault is very high and is covered with earth so that projectiles will bury themselves without exploding. The floor was raised in order to avoid rising damp.
GLOSSARY
Dead ground : Terrain not reachable by defensive fire from a fortification.
Bastion : A five sided, masonry covered, earth-work fortification.
Curtain : A wall of fortification between two towers ot two bastions.
Demi-lune : A low, triangular work of fortification placed in front of a curtain and between two bastions.
Service d'Animation du Patrimoine et des Musees de la ville de Montreuil-sur-Mer, taken from leaflet circa 2004.
The gate
The principal entrance to the citadel faces the town. The engineers have placed an accumulation of obstacles in front of this vulnerable point. The gate is framed by two half-bastions. Under Vauban, this system was complemented by a demi-lune, an advanced triangular shaped fortification work which protects the two curtains between the two bastions. The gate is composed of two separate openings, a carriage gateway and a postern gate which is now walled up, an arrangement which is a vestige of the Middle Ages. Access to the citadel was defended by a cantilever draw-bridge, which was replaced by an earth embankment in 1894. The gate retains the embrasures through which the cantilever arms, wooden beams connected to the drawbridge by chains, operated. Inside, the archway and the walls still bear the traces of the vertical channels within which a portcullis operated. The whole is completed by a guard-house which was added in the XVIIIth century.
The Castle of Philippe Auguste
After the entry of the town into the royal domain in 987 on the accession of Hugues Capet, a royal castle was built. It is first mentioned with certainty in 1042.
Until 1204, Montreuil was die only royal possession in the north of France. This strategic position very quickly placed the town at the heart of a conflict between the Capetians and the English Plantagenets, allied to the Counts of Flanders, of Boulogne and Ponthieu. This threat persuaded Philippe Auguste to build a new royal castle which is in part preserved within the 1567 citadel.
Two massive towers bracket the broken arch entrance. This polygonal castle, in the image of the slightly later one at Boulogne-sur-Mer, was separated from the town by a ditch. At each of its angles there was a salient, multi-level, round tower, with radiating archery slits. Originally built exclusively in sandstone, the various defensive changes of the XVIth century have necessitated the reconstruction of the upper parts in brick.
Queen Berthe's tower
This gate tower which is equipped with many systems of defence, has served as access to the town of Montreuil-sur-Mer for a long period. It was called the castle gate because of its proximity to Philippe Auguste's castle. Built in the middle of the XIVth. century its volume and the thickness of its walls are the solution provided by its architects to the evolution in the means of attack and especially the significant development of the cannon. During the construction of the citadel, this gate which gives access directly to the interior of the fortress, was judged to be dangerous and was closed as early as 1599. It preserves the memory of Berthe of Holland, wife of Philippe 1st, the King of France, who was repudiated in 1091 and who died at Montreuil in 1094. Legend has it that she was locked up in this tower.
Tower E
In the XVth Century, progress in artillery forced military engineers to imagine makeshift solutions. The technique developed was the raising of masses of earth behind walls in order to make them more resistant to cannon fire. The height of the curtains and of the towers was reduced to present a smaller target for the enemy's projectiles. The towers were filled with earth to provide solid emplacements for artillery pieces. Tower E illustrates this architectural evolution. Originally completely in sandstone and taller, it was refaced in brick at the end of the XVth century.
The bastions of the citadel
Italian engineers provided a final response to the problem of artillery by inventing the bastion. The circular hollow towers were replaced by vast pentagonal fortification works filled with earth on which multiple cannons were sited. These bastions axe separated by curtains which they protect with their fire. Their angular de¬sign permits the resolution of the problem of dead ground. From this time on the enemy was exposed to the defender's fire, whatever their position.
In the XVIth. Century, the proximity of the frontier of the Spanish low-countries, a dozen kilometers from Montreuil, induced King Charles IX (1559-1574) to improve the defences of the town. In 1567, he built a citadel with five bastions. Its design in the shape of a star, represented the latest innovations in terms of defence. The safety exit, built at the extremity of the bastion as an extension of the castle gate, provides an exit to the country in case of an attack on the town.
As in all the citadels built at the same time, the body of the fortress is enclosed by advanced defensive works designed to slow the progress of the attacker and to delay the crossing of the ditch. On the outside edge of the ditch, the covered way houses defenders armed with muskets protecting the glacis, vast areas of slightly sloped terrain arranged around the fortress.
The White Tower
It is the colour of the chalk that gives its name to the White Tower. This tower was part of the town before being absorbed into the citadel. Rebuilt around 1500, it has kept its XIIIth century sandstone base with its archery slits. The ground floor, with its ogival roof vaults illustrates the adaptation of the new techniques of defence. The archery slits have here given way to cannon ports, circular openings surmounted by observation slits. On the second floor, the guard-house topped, by a pepper-pot roof, has given in to the desire for comfort and has several windows and a fireplace.
The rampart-walk
Its construction in the XVIth. century required the lowering of the towers of the royal castle. It is supported by a series of massive brick arches. Without any real defensive advantage in modern times, it facilitates movement along the northern front of attack. Its commanding position over the surroundings allowed warnings of attack to be given. From the rampart-walk can be seen from the east to the west, the lighthouse at le Touquet, the sea-side towns, the wind farm at Widehem, la Canche, the Carthusian monastery of Notre-Dame des Pres at Neuville-sous-Montreuil and the forest of Hesdin.
The casemates
Integrated into the bastion, the casemates are made up of five chambers arranged in line, covered by cradle vaulted ceilings. Each chamber was built or two levels separated by a moveable floor, which is today no longer present. The firing slits are surmounted by an opening which permitted the evacuation of the gun-smoke They ensured the defence of the ditch nearest to the fortification.
Their construction was ordered in 1844 by Louis Philippe 1st who feared an attack on France by Prussia. During the first world war they housed the communications centre of the British General Headquarters in Europe.
The arsenal
The citadel of Montreuil is equipped with an arsenal, a building housing arms and military equipment. Built in the reign of Louis XIV, it originally had two floors.
The chapel
The chapel dates from 1764. This rectangular building has a neo-classical facade.
The powder magazine
Constructed around 1670, the powder magazine is built on the lines of those of Vauban in the Alps, particularly that at Mount Dauphin.
It is surrounded by an isolation wall, through which there is an entrance defended by a sentry-box. The building is braced by nine massive buttresses with a passage between them and the building. The roof vault is very high and is covered with earth so that projectiles will bury themselves without exploding. The floor was raised in order to avoid rising damp.
GLOSSARY
Dead ground : Terrain not reachable by defensive fire from a fortification.
Bastion : A five sided, masonry covered, earth-work fortification.
Curtain : A wall of fortification between two towers ot two bastions.
Demi-lune : A low, triangular work of fortification placed in front of a curtain and between two bastions.
Service d'Animation du Patrimoine et des Musees de la ville de Montreuil-sur-Mer, taken from leaflet circa 2004.
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